1935 Dime Coin Value: Errors List, “D”, “S” & No Mint Mark Worth

1935 Dime value ranges from $0.10 face value to $90,000. That record price was paid for a 1935-S Full Bands example graded MS68 at Heritage Auctions in January 2019. If you’re curious what yours might be worth, upload a photo of your coin below to get a quick value range. Then scroll down to check the latest eBay sales and see how prices are trending.

 

1935 Dime Value By Variety

Three varieties exist for the 1935 Dime, and each one prices differently based on mint mark and condition.

The chart below gives you a quick snapshot of what each variety is worth across different grades. If you know the grade of your coin, you can find the exact price below in the Value Guides section.

Also Read: Top 70+ Most Valuable Mercury Dimes Worth Money (Chart By Year)

 

Top 10 Most Valuable 1935 Dime Worth Money

The San Francisco mint owns the top spot here. A 1935-S Full Bands example graded MS68 hammered for $90,000 at Heritage Auctions in January 2019. That’s the most anyone has ever paid for a 1935 Dime at auction. The runner-up? A 1935-D FB in MS67 at $17,250.

Full Bands is the single biggest price multiplier for this date. The top three slots all belong to FB coins. Look at the gap: a 1935-S in MS68 without Full Bands brought just $3,819, while the FB version of the same grade hit $90,000. The 1935-S/S Repunched Mintmark FS-501 also shows up on the list, reaching $1,320 in MS67 for collectors who like error varieties. At the lower end, non-FB coins in MS67 still trade for $950 to $1,150—four-figure coins, but nowhere close to their FB counterparts.

 

History of the 1935 Dime

By 1935, the Mercury Dime design had been in circulation for nearly two decades. Adolph Weinman created it back in 1916 as part of a broader redesign that also refreshed the quarter and half dollar.

Production hadn’t been smooth, though. No dimes were struck in 1922. Mintages dropped hard during the Depression, and the mints skipped dime production entirely in 1932 and 1933. Philadelphia and Denver resumed in 1934, but San Francisco sat that year out completely.

That makes 1935 notable: it was the first year since 1931 that all three mints were back in the game. About 85 million dimes rolled out across the three facilities. Most went straight into pockets and cash registers during tough economic times. Few people thought to stash uncirculated examples, which is why high-grade survivors are genuinely hard to come by today.

Also Read: Mercury Dime Coin Value (1916-1945)

 

Is Your 1935 Dime Rare?

Here’s what catches people off guard: Philadelphia had the biggest mintage by far, yet its survival rate is the lowest of the three. Denver, with the smallest mintage, actually has the best survival percentage. The Full Bands versions across all three mints are a completely different kind of rare—especially the 1935-D FB. If you want to see exactly where your coin falls, the Coin Identifier and Value App can place it on the rarity scale based on its specific condition and mint mark.

 

Key Features of the 1935 Dime

Knowing what’s on each side of this coin helps you check condition, spot varieties, and understand what graders are looking at. Here’s a walkthrough.

The Obverse Of The 1935 Dime

You’ll see a left-facing portrait of Liberty wearing a winged Phrygian cap. Those wings were supposed to represent freedom of thought, but the public saw the Roman god Mercury instead. The nickname stuck, even though the coin’s official name is the Winged Liberty Head dime.

“LIBERTY” runs along the upper rim. Below Liberty’s chin, to the left, you’ll find “IN GOD WE TRUST.” The date “1935” sits at the bottom, just beneath the neck.

Look to the right of Liberty’s neck for Weinman’s initials “AW,” placed between the portrait and the rim. That placement actually drew complaints at the time—earlier designers had hidden their initials in less obvious spots. The Mint kept them there anyway for the entire run of the series.

The model is widely believed to be Elsie Stevens, wife of the poet Wallace Stevens. Weinman sculpted a bust of her in 1913, and the resemblance is hard to miss. He never named her publicly, though. He only said the design was based on “the wife of a lawyer friend.”

The Reverse Of The 1935 Dime

Flip it over and you’ll see a fasces front and center—a bundle of wooden rods bound with leather straps, with an axe blade poking out the top. It’s an ancient Roman symbol of authority and unity.

An olive branch wraps around the fasces. Weinman picked that pairing on purpose. The fasces stands for “the strength which lies in unity,” and the olive branch represents peace.

“UNITED STATES OF AMERICA” curves along the upper rim. “ONE DIME” appears at the bottom on either side of the fasces, separated by two five-pointed stars. “E PLURIBUS UNUM” sits to the right of the fasces.

The mint mark—if your coin has one—is near the bottom of the reverse. Look to the left of the fasces, between the “E” in “ONE” and the base of the olive branch.

Now, look at the horizontal bands binding the fasces. This is the money detail. When those bands are fully separated and sharply struck with no mushiness, the coin earns the “Full Bands” designation from grading services. That FB tag can multiply the value dramatically.

Other Features Of The 1935 Dime

The 1935 Dime is 90% silver and 10% copper—standard for every Mercury Dime in the series. It weighs 2.5 grams and measures 17.9 mm in diameter. Small coin.

The edge carries 118 individual reeds. That reeding was a security feature to keep people from shaving silver off the edges undetected.

With a face value of $0.10, this was an everyday workhorse coin in the mid-1930s. Thanks to its silver content, melt value today sits well above that original dime.

Also Read: Top 100 Rarest Dimes Worth Money (Most Expensive)

 

1935 Dime Mintage & Survival Data

Philadelphia dominated production at 58,830,000 coins. Denver had the smallest run at 10,477,000, and San Francisco landed in between at 15,840,000. That’s roughly 85 million dimes total.

Here’s the twist: Philadelphia struck nearly six times as many coins as Denver, yet only about twice as many survive today. Philly’s survival rate is just 0.034%—the lowest of the three. Denver actually leads at 0.0954%. To put that in perspective, out of every 10,000 Philadelphia dimes struck, only about 3 still exist.

Heavy circulation during the Depression years and later silver melts wiped out the vast majority across all three varieties.

Also Read: Top 100 Most Valuable Roosevelt Dimes Worth Money List (Year Chart)

 

The Easy Way to Know Your 1935 Dime Value

Three things drive the value: mint mark, condition, and Full Bands.

Start on the reverse. Look near the base of the fasces for a “D,” “S,” or no letter at all. Then check the overall wear on Liberty’s hair and the fasces bands. If those horizontal bands are fully separated with no breaks, you might have a Full Bands coin—and that carries a serious premium.

For a faster answer, snap a photo with the Coin Identifier and Value App. It can identify the variety and give you an estimated value range in seconds.

 

1935 Dime Value Guides

All three 1935 varieties are cheap in circulated grades. Prices climb fast once you hit mint state, and the Full Bands premium varies a lot depending on which mint struck the coin.

Here are three varieties of the 1935 Mercury Dime.

• 1935 No Mint Mark Dime — most available, with FB driving top prices
• 1935-D Dime — hardest to find with Full Bands
• 1935-S Dime — holds the highest auction record of the three

Denver tends to carry a slight premium over Philadelphia in comparable grades. San Francisco can reach the highest prices at the top of the scale. Even a one-grade difference in the upper mint state range can mean a huge jump in price across all three varieties.

 

1935 No Mint Mark Dime Value

You can pick up a circulated example for $7 to $13. That makes the Philadelphia issue the cheapest entry point into a 1935 Mercury Dime set.

Things get more interesting in mint state. An MS65 typically sells around $80, but slap a Full Bands designation on it and that number can more than double. An MS66FB has brought $660 at auction.

The ceiling? MS68FB. The auction record is $11,213, set at Bowers & Merena in 2006. Very few coins have graded that high.

Below MS66, this coin is easy to find with patience. Above that, the population thins out fast. I think this is one of the best values in the series for collectors who want a solid coin without spending a fortune.

Below is a full list of auction records for the 1935 No Mint Mark Dime across all grades and designations.

The market activity chart shows how this variety has been trading over the past year.

Market activity score: 50/100 as of Oct 2026 — up 4 points from Jul 2026. 12-month peak: 70 (Nov 2025).

 

1935-D Dime Value

Did you know the 1935-D is considered one of the toughest Full Bands coins in the entire Mercury Dime series? Some collectors rank its FB rarity right alongside the legendary 1939-S. That alone makes this variety worth paying attention to.

Circulated examples start around $7 but can reach $45 in higher circulated grades—three to four times what a comparable Philly coin costs. The lowest mintage of the three at 10,477,000 shows up in the pricing.

At the top, an MS67FB sold for $17,250 at Heritage Auctions in 2000. At MS68 without FB, only a single NGC-graded coin is known, and it brought $2,300. If you come across a 1935-D with sharp, fully separated bands, take a very close look. That combination doesn’t come up often.

You can explore every recorded auction result for the 1935-D Dime in the table below.

The following chart tracks recent market activity for this variety over the last 12 months.

Market activity score: 51/100 as of Oct 2026 — up 6 points from Jul 2026. 12-month peak: 59 (Dec 2025).

 

1935-S Dime Value

$90,000 for a dime. That’s what a 1935-S MS68FB brought at Heritage Auctions in January 2019—more than five times the Denver record and eight times the Philadelphia record. No other 1935 Dime comes close.

San Francisco hadn’t struck any dimes in 1932, 1933, or 1934, so the 1935-S marks the mint’s return after a three-year gap. That backstory adds collector interest.

In most grades, this variety is reasonably priced. Full Bands examples are easier to find here than with the Denver issue—San Francisco generally delivered a cleaner strike on this date. But at the very top of the grading scale, supply gets genuinely thin. We think high-grade 1935-S FB coins sit in a sweet spot where limited supply meets consistent demand.

All known auction records for the 1935-S Dime are listed below by grade.

The market chart that follows gives you a look at how demand have moved over the past year.

Market activity score: 65/100 as of Oct 2026 — up 14 points from Jul 2026. 12-month peak: 74 (Aug 2026).

Also Read: 16 Rare Dime Errors List with Pictures (By Year)

 

Rare 1935 Dime Error List

Some 1935 Dimes left the mint with mistakes that slipped past quality control. These errors can turn an otherwise common coin into something worth real money. Here’s what to look for.

1. 1935 Dime Doubled Die Obverse (DDO) FS-101

This is the big one for 1935 Philadelphia Dimes. It’s listed in the Cherrypickers’ Guide as FS-101, and CONECA has documented at least two DDO varieties for this date.

Here’s how it happened. In the 1930s, working dies needed multiple hub impressions to fully form the design. If the die or hub shifted slightly between impressions, you got doubling on the finished coin.

On the FS-101, the doubling shows up best on the date and the letters in LIBERTY. Some examples also show it around Liberty’s profile and the wing details on her cap. You’ll need at least 10x magnification to see it clearly. Don’t confuse this with machine doubling, which looks flat and shelf-like. A true doubled die shows rounded, raised doubling.

This variety is genuinely scarce. Greysheet puts the current value between $2,000 and $2,400 in mint state, and $3,000 to $3,600 with Full Bands.

2. 1935-S/S Dime Repunched Mintmark (RPM) FS-501

Before the 1990s, mint marks were punched into dies by hand. A worker used a small steel tool to stamp the letter into each working die. If the first punch landed slightly off, they had to hit it again to fix it.

That’s exactly what happened here. The S got punched more than once, leaving a visible ghost impression near the primary letter. It’s subtle—you’ll want a loupe to confirm it.

CONECA catalogs this as RPM-002, and it’s in the Cherrypickers’ Guide. The auction record is $1,320 for an MS67 at Heritage Auctions in October 2019. In lower grades, the RPM adds a modest bump, with Greysheet listing values from around $6 to $317 depending on condition.

If you have a 1935-S, check that mint mark area carefully before you assume it’s a standard coin. This is a classic cherrypicking opportunity.

3. 1935 Dime Off-Center Strike Error

This happens when the blank planchet isn’t seated properly between the dies. The design shifts to one side, leaving a crescent-shaped blank area on the opposite edge.

The degree varies. A 5% off-center coin looks slightly odd. A 50% off-center coin is missing a big chunk of the design.

One thing matters most for value: can you read the date? A full date makes the coin attributable to 1935, and that’s where the money is. Without a readable date, the price drops hard.

A 1935 Mercury Dime struck about 10% off-center with Full Split Bands has been listed at $395. More dramatic shifts in the 25% to 50% range with visible dates can reach $500 or higher.

4. 1935 Dime Clipped Planchet Error

This error happens before the coin is even struck. A blanking press punches circular blanks from a flat metal strip. The strip is supposed to advance a set distance between punches. When it doesn’t advance far enough, the next punch overlaps with a previous hole.

The result is a coin with a curved bite out of its edge. That’s a curved clip. Straight clips happen less often, when the blank gets cut from the very end of the strip.

Small clips removing 5% to 10% of the planchet typically sell for $50 to $125 in circulated condition. Larger clips in the 15% to 25% range can bring $150 to $300.

How do you tell it’s genuine? Check the edge. A real clip has a smooth, curved boundary. Jagged or irregular edges mean post-mint damage, not a mint error.

5. 1935 Dime Strikethrough Error

A strikethrough happens when foreign material gets trapped between the die and planchet during striking. The debris blocks part of the design from transferring to the coin.

Grease is the most common culprit. During a production run, lubricant can fill recessed areas of the die, leaving smooth, featureless patches where design details should be. You’ll sometimes hear these called “grease-filled die” errors.

Other materials show up too—cloth fibers, small metal fragments, wire pieces. These leave distinct impressions or textures pressed into the coin’s surface.

Strikethroughs on 1935 Dimes generally sell in the $30 to $150 range. Value depends on the size of the affected area, how clear the impression is, and whether it’s on the obverse or reverse. Obverse strikethroughs tend to bring slightly more because they’re more eye-catching.

 

Where to Sell Your 1935 Dime?

After identifying varieties and understanding market values, selecting an appropriate selling venue becomes the crucial next step. Multiple platforms serve collectors and dealers, each presenting unique advantages depending on your specific circumstances.

Check out now: Best Places To Sell Coins Online (Pros & Cons)

 

1935 Dime Market Trend

Market interest: 7,280 collectors tracking this coin as of Oct 2026 — up 1,000 from Mar 2026. Currently at its 12-month peak.

*Market Trend Chart showing the number of people paying attention to this coin.

 

FAQ About The 1935 Dime

1. How much is a 1935 Dime worth today?

Anywhere from a few bucks to $90,000. In circulated condition, most 1935 No Mint Mark Dimes sell for around $7 to $13. Denver examples can reach $45 in higher circulated grades. Mint state is where prices take off—an MS65 Philadelphia coin runs about $80, and an MS65 Denver about $125. The all-time record is $90,000 for a 1935-S graded MS68FB, sold at Heritage Auctions in January 2019.

2. How do I find the mint mark on a 1935 Dime?

Flip the coin to the reverse and look near the bottom of the design. The mint mark sits to the left of the fasces, between the letter E in ONE and the base of the olive branch. A “D” means Denver, an “S” means San Francisco. No letter? That’s Philadelphia—they didn’t use a mint mark on dimes during this era. On worn coins, you may need a magnifying glass to spot it.

3. What does Full Bands mean on a 1935 Mercury Dime?

Look at the horizontal bands wrapping around the fasces on the reverse. On a sharply struck coin, those bands are fully separated with no breaks or flat spots. PCGS and NGC award the FB designation only to uncirculated coins meeting that standard.

The price impact is massive. A 1935-S in MS68 without Full Bands sold for $3,819. The same variety in MS68 with Full Bands brought $90,000. Among the three mints, the 1935-D is the toughest to find with clean Full Bands.

4. Is the 1935 Dime made of real silver?

Yes. It’s 90% silver and 10% copper, the standard for all Mercury Dimes from 1916 to 1945. Each coin weighs 2.5 grams and contains 0.07234 troy ounces of pure silver. Even a beat-up 1935 Dime is worth more than its $0.10 face value because of that silver content. Melt value fluctuates with the silver market but always sits well above face.

5. Which 1935 Dime variety is the most valuable?

Depends on the grade. At the very top, the 1935-S wins—$90,000 for an MS68FB. In mid-range mint state grades, the 1935-D often commands the highest premiums thanks to its lowest mintage at 10,477,000 and its extreme FB rarity.

The Denver record is $17,250 for an MS67FB. Philadelphia’s record is $11,213 for an MS68FB, making it the most affordable of the three at comparable top grades.

6. How can I tell if my 1935 Dime has a DDO error?

Grab at least 10x magnification and look at the date and the letters in LIBERTY. The 1935 DDO FS-101 shows a shadow or slight offset on the numbers in 1935 and the individual letters along the upper rim. Some examples also show doubling around Liberty’s profile and wing details.

This variety is in the Cherrypickers’ Guide and recognized by CONECA. Mint state examples are valued between $2,000 and $2,400, and FB examples between $3,000 and $3,600. Watch out for machine doubling—it looks flat and shelf-like, while a true doubled die has rounded, raised doubling.

7. How many 1935 Dimes were made and how many survive?

About 85 million total. Philadelphia led with 58,830,000, San Francisco struck 15,840,000, and Denver produced 10,477,000. This was the first year since 1931 with all three mints active.

Survivors are a tiny fraction: roughly 20,000 Philadelphia coins, 12,000 San Francisco coins, and 10,000 Denver coins. Philadelphia has the lowest survival rate at just 0.034% despite the highest mintage. Heavy circulation and silver melts took out the rest.

8. What is the 1935-S/S Repunched Mintmark error worth?

The 1935-S/S RPM FS-501 shows a secondary S impression near the primary mint mark, caused by a hand-punching error at the die stage. It’s cataloged by CONECA as RPM-002 and listed in the Cherrypickers’ Guide.

The auction record is $1,320 for an MS67 at Heritage Auctions in October 2019. In circulated grades, Greysheet lists values from around $6 up to $317 at the top of the mint state scale. Grab a loupe and check that mint mark area on any 1935-S you own.

9. Should I clean my 1935 Dime before selling it?

No. Don’t do it. Cleaning almost always hurts the value. PCGS and NGC will flag a cleaned coin with a details grade instead of a straight numeric grade, and that kills the market appeal. Even gentle wiping can leave hairline scratches visible under magnification.

Natural toning is part of the coin’s history. Many collectors prefer original surfaces. If your coin is dirty, leave it alone and let a professional assess it. An uncleaned 1935 Dime will almost always outsell a cleaned one.

10. Where is the best place to sell a 1935 Dime?

For high-value coins—slabbed FB examples, errors, or anything worth several hundred dollars or more—major auction houses like Heritage Auctions or Stack’s Bowers give you access to serious buyers. The $90,000 1935-S MS68FB and the $17,250 1935-D MS67FB both sold through Heritage.

For common circulated examples, eBay offers a wide buyer pool and quick sales. Local dealers work if you want cash today, though expect below-retail offers. Either way, getting your coin graded by PCGS or NGC first helps—certified coins consistently sell for more than raw ones.