1978 Dime Value Checker: Errors List, “D”, “S” & No Mint Mark Worth

1978 Dime value ranges from $0.10 face value to $4,025. That record was a Grade 66 example sold through Heritage Auctions in August 2006. Upload a photo of yours below for a quick value range based on condition and mint mark. Scroll down to check recent eBay sales and see what collectors are actually paying right now.

 

1978 Dime Value By Variety

Condition, mint mark, and special designations all drive the price of your 1978 Roosevelt dime. If you already know the grade, jump to the Value Guides section for exact numbers.

Also Read: Roosevelt Dime Value (1946-Present)

 

Top 10 Most Valuable 1978 Dime Worth Money

The all-time king is a Philadelphia (no mint mark) dime graded MS66 that hammered for $4,025 at Heritage Auctions on August 13, 2006. A second Philly coin, one grade lower at MS65, wasn’t far behind at $3,910. Why so much for a clad dime? PCGS CoinFacts expert Jaime Hernandez has documented fewer than 100 Philadelphia examples ever certified MS66 or higher. In MS67, fewer than 50 exist. Only two coins have ever hit MS68, and nothing higher has been confirmed.

Denver’s top coin is an MS68 that brought $1,187 on December 30, 2022, via eBay with PCGS certification. San Francisco proofs round out the list — a perfect PR70 Deep Cameo sold for $604, while PR68 and PR69 grades stay affordable at $20 and $15. The spread between a pocket-change dime and these top-pop coins is one of the wildest value gaps in modern U.S. coinage.

 

History of the 1978 Dime

The Roosevelt dime debuted in January 1946, just months after FDR passed away on April 12, 1945. The Treasury picked the dime because of Roosevelt’s personal tie to the March of Dimes — the polio-fighting organization he helped found in 1938.

Chief Engraver John R. Sinnock designed the coin, basing the left-facing portrait on a medal he’d created earlier. The reverse torch, olive branch, and oak branch have stayed on every circulating dime since.

By 1978, the series was in its 32nd year. Inflation had been grinding higher since the early 1970s, fueled by the 1973 oil embargo and ongoing energy price swings. That October, President Carter signed the Humphrey-Hawkins Full Employment Act, setting formal federal targets for inflation and unemployment.

Here’s a fun production detail: just two years earlier, in 1976, Philadelphia paused dime production entirely to focus on Bicentennial coinage. By 1978 normal output resumed — Philadelphia struck 663,980,000 coins, Denver added 282,847,540, and San Francisco made 3,127,781 proof coins for collector sets. But the Philly dies that year showed heavy wear, which is why not a single Full Bands example has ever been confirmed from that facility.

Also Read: Top 100 Most Valuable Roosevelt Dimes Worth Money List

 

Is Your 1978 Dime Rare?

Use our Coin Identifier and Value App to instantly identify your 1978 dime’s rarity and current market value.

 

Key Features of the 1978 Dime

The 1978 Roosevelt dime carries John R. Sinnock’s 1946 design honoring President Franklin D. Roosevelt. Here’s what to look for when you examine yours.

The Obverse of the 1978 Dime

Roosevelt’s left-facing portrait dominates the obverse. “LIBERTY” runs along the left rim in front of his face, and “IN GOD WE TRUST” sits in smaller letters below his chin.

Look near the bottom right for the date “1978.” Denver coins show a “D” mint mark above the date, San Francisco proofs display an “S,” and Philadelphia issues carry no mint mark at all.

The Reverse of the 1978 Dime

Flip it over and you’ll see a torch at center — the symbol of liberty. An olive branch (peace) flanks it on the left, an oak branch (strength) on the right. “E PLURIBUS UNUM” stretches horizontally between the torch and branches. “UNITED STATES OF AMERICA” curves along the top rim, and “ONE DIME” sits at the bottom.

Other Features of the 1978 Dime

The 1978 Roosevelt dime measures 17.90 mm in diameter with a reeded edge. This clad composition coin consists of 75% copper and 25% nickel layered over a pure copper core, weighing 2.27 grams.

Also Read: Top 100 Rarest Dimes Worth Money (Most Expensive)

 

1978 Dime Mintage & Survival Data

Philadelphia cranked out 663,980,000 dimes — enough to hand roughly three to every man, woman, and child in the country that year. Denver added 282,847,540. San Francisco made only 3,127,781 proof coins for collector sets.

Denver coins show roughly a 20% survival rate, with most circulated pieces lost to wear, damage, or just disappearing over time. San Francisco proofs sit at about 81% survival, which makes sense — collectors tend to baby those from day one.

Philadelphia survival data isn’t tracked, but millions surely still exist in lower grades. At the top of the scale, though, it’s a completely different kind of rare. Fewer than 100 Philly examples have ever graded MS66 or better across PCGS and NGC combined. That’s a true condition rarity hiding behind a massive mintage number.

Also Read: Top 70+ Most Valuable Mercury Dimes Worth Money (Chart By Year)

 

The Easy Way to Know Your 1978 Dime Value

Condition is everything. Look closely at Roosevelt’s cheekbone and the high points of the torch on the reverse — that’s where wear shows first.

Check luster under a good light. Uncirculated coins still have their original shine; circulated ones look progressively duller. Scratches, bag marks, and dings all knock value down.

For business strikes, look at the torch bands on the reverse. Full Bands designation can boost value significantly in higher grades. Keep in mind no Philadelphia dime has ever earned that designation, while Denver examples can qualify. San Francisco proofs are the most accessible variety for collectors.

Our Coin Identifier and Value App can instantly evaluate your 1978 dime’s grade and provide current market values based on its condition.

 

1978 Dime Value Guides

Three varieties exist for the 1978 Roosevelt dime:

• 1978 No Mint Mark Dime – Struck at Philadelphia
• 1978-D Dime – Produced at the Denver Mint
• 1978-S DCAM Dime – Proof coins struck at San Francisco

Knowing which one you have sets the baseline, but condition is still the biggest price driver.

 

1978 No Mint Mark Dime Value

Here’s a number that should stop you in your tracks: zero. That’s how many Full Bands examples exist for this variety. Out of 663,980,000 coins struck, not one has ever earned the FB or FT designation from any grading service. PCGS expert Jaime Hernandez points to worn dies used throughout the entire production run — the torch bands simply never got a sharp enough impression. You literally cannot buy one at any price.

In worn condition, these are worth face value. Period. But at the top of the grading scale, the story flips hard. PCGS has documented fewer than 100 examples certified MS66 or better, and only two coins in history have reached MS68. None higher. That’s why a single MS66 could sell for $4,025 at Heritage Auctions while the one in your junk drawer buys you nothing.

If you’re cherrypicking rolls from the late ’70s, this is the variety where a gem-quality find would be a genuine discovery.

Auction results highlight the price range this variety commands across different quality levels.

Certified examples continue to attract collector attention in today’s market.

 

1978-D Dime Value

Can you find a 1978-D with Full Bands? Yes — and that’s the key difference from its Philadelphia sibling. Denver’s dies held up well enough that sharp torch-band separation is possible, making this variety collectible with both a standard grade and the FB designation. Strike quality varies a lot among survivors, though. Some show crisp detail; others have the mushy look of a late-die-state coin.

Circulated examples are worth face value, same as Philly. The premium kicks in at MS65 and above, especially with Full Bands. The finest known Denver piece, graded MS68 by PCGS, sold for $1,187 on December 30, 2022, through eBay. That’s serious money for a clad dime and shows how competitive bidding gets at the top-pop level.

The following table shows documented auction prices across different grade levels.

Trading patterns reflect how buyers approach this Denver variety in the current marketplace.

 

1978-S DCAM Dime Value

A PR70 Deep Cameo sold for $604 — and you can still pick up a PR69 DCAM for pocket change. That price gap tells you everything about how supply works with proof coins.

San Francisco struck these exclusively for collectors. None ever entered circulation. The “DCAM” (Deep Cameo) label describes that sharp contrast between frosted design elements and mirror-like fields. One thing to keep straight: these are clad proofs, not silver. The Mint dropped silver from dimes in 1965 and didn’t bring it back for proofs until 1992.

Production quality stayed high all year. Most survivors grade PR69 or PR70, thanks to careful manufacturing and the fact that collectors tend to store these properly from day one. I think this makes the 1978-S one of the best entry points for anyone building a modern Roosevelt dime set — high quality, low cost, and easy to find slabbed.

Auction history for this proof variety spans multiple grade levels and price points.

Market participation demonstrates how this San Francisco proof fits into modern Roosevelt dime collecting.

Also Read: 16 Rare Dime Errors List with Pictures (By Year)

 

Rare 1978 Dime Error List

Most 1978 dimes left the Mint exactly as intended. But when something went wrong on the production line, the results can be worth real money to error collectors. Here’s what to look for.

1. Clipped Planchet Errors

This happens when the blanking press punches into an area that already had a blank cut from it. You get a coin with a curved bite taken out of the edge.

Bigger clips bring bigger premiums. A clip removing 10% or more of the coin’s surface is worth more than a tiny nibble. Clips that cut into the date or mint mark actually hurt value because they make authentication trickier. Straight clips — less common than curved ones — tend to sell stronger. Minor clips go for around $5, while Mint State examples with prominent clips can reach $30 or more.

2. Die Cud Errors

When a chunk of the die breaks off from metal fatigue, the missing section leaves a void. Metal flows into that void during striking, creating a raised, featureless blob on the finished coin.

Cuds usually show up along the rim where stress concentrates. Size matters — bigger cuds covering more surface area command higher prices. Location matters too. A cud across Roosevelt’s face or the torch gets more collector attention than one tucked along the rim. Expect anywhere from $25 to several hundred dollars depending on size and visual impact.

3. Broadstrike Errors

The retaining collar normally keeps the metal confined during striking. When it’s missing or misaligned, the coin spreads out wider and thinner than normal. No collar means no reeded edge either.

Broadstrike 1978 dimes measure slightly larger than the standard 17.90 mm. The design elements look spread out and a bit weak. The more dramatic the expansion, the more it’s worth. Values range from $5 for barely noticeable examples to $100 for coins that are obviously oversized with strong eye appeal.

4. Off-Center Strike Errors

When the blank doesn’t land centered between the dies, you get a coin with a blank crescent on one side and the design crammed into the rest. Heritage Auctions has sold a 1978 dime struck 15% off-center graded MS63 by NGC.

The golden rule: the date must be readable. A 1978 dime struck 25% or more off-center with a complete date is worth far more than one where the date got clipped. Values run from $25 for minor 5–10% shifts up to $150 or more for dramatic 30%+ strikes with a fully visible date.

5. Missing Clad Layer Errors

Roosevelt dimes are a copper-nickel sandwich — a copper core with outer layers of 75% copper and 25% nickel bonded to each side. Sometimes one of those outer layers fails to bond before striking. The result? One side looks normal, the other glows copper.

PCGS population data confirms at least 8 examples of the 1978 Philadelphia dime with an obverse missing clad layer at the AU58 grade level. These typically sell for $75 to $200 depending on grade and which side is affected. Obverse errors tend to be more dramatic-looking and more desirable.

6. Struck-Through and Grease-Filled Errors

Foreign material — grease, lint, a stray metal fragment — gets trapped between the die and planchet at the moment of impact. The obstruction blocks the design, leaving a smooth, blank patch where detail should be.

On 1978 dimes, grease-filled dies most commonly hit the mint mark on Denver coins. The “D” can look partially filled, blobby, or even invisible — making a 1978-D look like a Philly coin at first glance. These are modest in value, typically $10 to $30, but they’re fun conversation pieces in any error collection.

 

Where to Sell Your 1978 Dime?

Ready to sell your 1978 dime collection? Finding the right marketplace matters just as much as knowing your coin’s value. I’ve put together a comprehensive list of trusted online platforms where you can sell coins, complete with detailed introductions, advantages, and potential drawbacks to help you make an informed decision.

Check out now: Best Places To Sell Coins Online (Pros & Cons)

 

1978 Dime Market Trend

*Market Trend Chart showing the number of people paying attention to this coin.

 

FAQ about the 1978 Dime

1. Does the 1978 dime contain any silver?

No. The Mint dropped silver from circulating dimes in 1965. All 1978 Roosevelt dimes — Philadelphia, Denver, and San Francisco proofs — use a clad composition: 75% copper and 25% nickel over a pure copper core. Silver proof dimes didn’t return until 1992.

2. How much is a 1978 Dime worth today?

Most circulated examples are worth face value — 10 cents. Uncirculated coins typically range from $12 to $15. San Francisco proofs in standard grades sell for $3 to $7, with perfect PR70 DCAM examples occasionally reaching into the hundreds.

Philadelphia and Denver coins graded above MS66 can command $40 to over $4,000. Error coins with off-center strikes, missing clad layers, or other documented mistakes add $25 to $200 or more depending on the error type and visual drama.

3. How rare are 1978 dimes compared to other Roosevelt dimes?

In circulated grades, they’re among the most common in the entire series. In top grades, it’s a different story. PCGS data shows fewer than 100 Philadelphia examples certified MS66 or better, and only two have reached MS68.

Most collectors chase earlier silver Roosevelts or key dates like 1949-S and 1996-W, so 1978 gets overlooked. That creates real cherrypicking opportunities if you focus on condition rarities, especially Philly strikes.

4. Why does the 1978 Philadelphia dime have no Full Bands examples?

This is one of the wildest facts in modern coin collecting. Not a single 1978 Philadelphia dime has ever been confirmed with Full Bands detail — out of more than 663 million struck. PCGS expert Jaime Hernandez points to dies that were already heavily worn before production started. The horizontal torch bands never got a sharp enough impression to qualify.

Full Bands is a major value multiplier for most Roosevelt dimes. The 1978 Philly issue stands alone in the modern clad era as essentially impossible to collect with this designation.

5. What is the difference between a CAM and DCAM proof 1978 dime?

CAM (Cameo) means noticeable contrast between frosted devices and mirror fields. DCAM (Deep Cameo) means stark, dramatic contrast. DCAM is the more desirable designation and commands higher prices at every grade level.

Most 1978-S proofs grade as either CAM or DCAM because San Francisco maintained strong production standards. A PR70 DCAM has sold for $604, while non-DCAM proofs trade for considerably less.

6. What is the most valuable 1978 dime error?

Dramatic off-center strikes with a fully readable date tend to bring the most. A 1978 dime struck 40–50% off-center with a complete date could realistically sell for $100 to $200 or more to an error specialist.

Missing clad layer errors are also highly collectible. PCGS has certified multiple 1978 Philadelphia dimes with a missing obverse clad layer. These typically trade in the $75 to $200 range depending on grade and how dramatic the exposed copper looks.

7. Is the 1978-S proof dime worth buying for a collection?

Absolutely. We think it’s one of the best entry points for modern Roosevelt dime collecting. Most survivors grade PR69 or PR70 DCAM, and you can pick up a PR69 for roughly $3 to $7. Hard to beat that for a slabbed, high-grade coin.

It also sits at an interesting spot historically — the last full decade before silver proof dimes returned in 1992. Collectors building complete modern proof sets often start with years like 1978 because quality is high and prices are low.

8. What does MS grade mean for a 1978 dime?

MS stands for Mint State — the coin never circulated and shows no wear. The Sheldon scale runs from 1 to 70. An MS60 is technically uncirculated but covered in bag marks, while MS70 would be theoretically perfect (none confirmed for this date).

For practical purposes, MS65 is gem quality, MS66 is very scarce for the 1978 Philly issue, and MS67 is about the ceiling for most collectors. The jump from MS65 ($12–$15) to MS66 ($41+) reflects genuine scarcity.

9. Can I find a valuable 1978 dime in circulation today?

You can still pull a 1978 dime from pocket change, but it’s getting rarer as older coins drop out of circulation. Any you find will almost certainly be heavily worn and worth face value. Finding an uncirculated example in change is basically impossible — those were set aside decades ago.

Your best shot is searching old collections, estate sales, or original bank rolls from the late 1970s. Rolls from that era sometimes contain uncirculated pieces, though finding an MS66-quality coin that way would still be extraordinary.

10. Should I clean my 1978 dime before selling it?

Never. Cleaning destroys original luster and leaves hairline scratches that PCGS and NGC will catch. A cleaned coin gets a “details” grade instead of a straight numerical grade, which tanks both value and sellability.

Even if your coin looks dull or spotted, leave it alone. Original surfaces — toned, spotted, whatever — beat a polished coin every time in the eyes of experienced collectors. If you’re unsure about condition, send it to PCGS or NGC for professional evaluation instead of trying to improve it yourself.