1925 Quarter Value Checker: Errors List & No Mint Mark Worth

1925 quarter value ranges from $0.25 face value to $22,913. That record was set by a Grade 67 example sold through Stack’s Bowers in February 2013. If you’re wondering what yours might fetch, upload a photo of your coin below for a quick value range. Then scroll down to see recent eBay sales and check what collectors are paying right now.

 

1925 Quarter Value By Variety

Condition drives everything here. The Full Head designation pushes prices noticeably higher across every grade.

If you know the grade of your coin, you can find the exact price below in the Value Guides section.

Also Read: Top 10 Most Valuable Quarter Coins In Circulation Worth Money (With Pictures)

 

Top 10 Most Valuable 1925 Quarter Worth Money

The coin sitting at the top of this chart is a PCGS MS67 Full Head that hammered for $22,913 at Stack’s Bowers. That’s a coin that survived a hundred years with virtually no contact marks and a strike sharp enough to show every leaf in Liberty’s hair. Finding one like it today would be a serious cherrypicking triumph — the population at that grade is razor thin.

Most 1925 quarters at auction land in the mid-grade Mint State range, where prices stay very manageable. Collectability kicks in around AU and remains affordable up through MS66. Once you hit MS67 and finer, supply dries up fast.

The Full Head designation creates a huge gap at every level. MS66 FH and above? That’s a completely different kind of rare. FH examples consistently outpace standard coins at auction, and the spread only widens as you climb the grading scale. For most buyers, though, the realistic sweet spot sits well below those peaks. This date is known for strong strikes and quality luster, making it one of the better type coin options in the series.

 

History Of The 1925 Quarter

The Standing Liberty quarter debuted in 1916, designed by sculptor Hermon A. MacNeil. In 1917, Liberty’s exposed torso was covered with chain mail after public criticism — creating the Type 2 format that carried the series forward.

Here’s the detail that matters most for 1925. By late 1924, Mint officials had a problem: quarters were coming back from circulation with the date completely worn off. The date sat on one of the highest relief points, so it was always the first thing to go.

The fix came in 1925. The Mint hollowed out the pedestal where Liberty stands and recessed the date numerals into that space. It worked. Quarters struck from 1925 through the end of the series in 1930 held their dates far better, even after years of hard use. That split the series into two eras — raised date (1916–1924) and recessed date (1925–1930). The 1925 quarter opens that second chapter, and for collectors today, that distinction still matters.

Also Read: Top 100 Most Valuable Modern Quarters Worth Money List (1965-Present)

 

Is Your 1925 Quarter Rare?

Rarity scores can shift depending on grade and certification, so checking the Coin Identifier and Value App gives you a more precise read on where your specific coin stands.

 

Key Features Of The 1925 Quarter

Knowing the design details helps you grade more accurately and spot problems faster. Here’s what to look for on both sides.

The Obverse Of The 1925 Quarter

Liberty steps forward through a gateway, holding an olive branch in her right hand and a shield in her left. She’s wearing chain mail — that detail was added in 1917 to reflect military readiness.

Thirteen stars flank the gateway, seven on the left and six on the right. “LIBERTY” arcs across the top of the coin, while “IN GOD” appears on the left wall of the gateway and “WE TRVST” on the right. The date sits on the step below Liberty’s feet, recessed into the design from 1925 onward rather than raised above it.

The Full Head designation applies to this side. To qualify, Liberty’s head must show complete detail in three areas: the hairline at the forehead, the three leaves in her hair, and the ear indentation. These features are often soft even on uncirculated examples. That’s why a confirmed Full Head coin is so much harder to find.

The Reverse Of The 1925 Quarter

Flip it over and you’ll see an American eagle in full flight. “UNITED STATES OF AMERICA” and “E PLURIBUS UNUM” run above, with “QUARTER DOLLAR” below. Three stars sit beneath the eagle — they were moved there during the 1917 Type 2 redesign.

The eagle sits higher and more centered compared to earlier types, giving the reverse a cleaner look overall. On well-struck examples, the breast feathers show clear definition. That’s one of the first areas to check — coins struck with worn dies often go soft right there.

Other Features Of The 1925 Quarter

The coin measures 24.30 mm in diameter, weighs 6.30 grams, and is composed of 90% silver and 10% copper. The edge is reeded — standard for U.S. silver coins of the era and a deterrent against clipping.

No mint mark appears on the 1925 quarter. Philadelphia was the only mint striking quarters that year, and Philly never used a mint mark on Standing Liberty quarters throughout the series. On coins from other years, the mint mark appears on the obverse to the left of the date.

Also Read:Top 30 Most Valuable State Quarter Coins Worth Money List

 

1925 Quarter Mintage & Survival Data

Philadelphia struck 12,280,000 quarters in 1925 — no branch mints participated that year. Out of those, roughly 20,000 are believed to survive today. That’s a survival rate of about 0.16%.

To put that in perspective, if you dumped all the survivors into a single room, they’d barely fill a couple of shoe boxes. Most of those are well-worn circulated pieces. Higher-grade and Full Head survivors make up only a tiny fraction of that 20,000 total.

For you as a collector, that means finding a circulated 1925 is no problem. Finding one in gem condition with a Full Head? That’s a different hunt entirely.

Also Read: Top 20 Most Valuable Bicentennial Quarter Worth Money List

 

The Easy Way to Know Your 1925 Quarter Value

Start with Liberty’s head. Check the hairline, the three leaves, and the ear indentation. Then look at the high points — the shield, the chainmail, and Liberty’s knee. More wear on those areas means a lower grade.

Fully struck examples with Full Head details bring the biggest premiums. The head is the weakest area on most Standing Liberty quarters, so when it’s sharp, you’ve got something special. Once you have a rough grade in mind, cross-reference it against current market prices.

For a faster result, the Coin Identifier and Value App lets you photograph your coin and get an AI-powered value estimate on the spot.

 

1925 Quarter Value Guides

Only one mint struck quarters in 1925, so there’s a single variety to cover. Condition and strike quality create all the spread.

Here is what this section covers:

• 1925 No Mint Mark Quarter — the only variety struck that year, from Philadelphia

Grade is the primary driver. A coin in Good sits at the bottom of the range, while a certified Full Head gem commands a serious premium. For most collectors, the 1925 is attainable — but the better the condition, the harder it gets.

 

1925 No Mint Mark Quarter Value

Here’s a common misconception: people assume all Standing Liberty quarters are weakly struck. Not this one. The 1925 Philadelphia issue is known for strong strikes, quality luster, and even attractive toning. I think it’s one of the best Full Head type coins in the whole series.

Circulated examples in Good to Fine grades trade at modest prices above melt value. Nothing crazy. But once you cross into Mint State, the Full Head designation starts pulling prices apart. A standard MS63 and an MS63 FH can differ by several hundred dollars.

MS66 is scarce. Anything finer is genuinely rare. A standard MS66 has sold for $1,440 at auction, while an MS67 FH reached $22,913 — the record for this date.

For most of you, the sweet spot is MS65 FH. Strong strike quality at a price that won’t empty your account. Above that, population at MS66 FH and higher is thin, and those coins rarely come to market. If you’re building a registry set, that’s where the upside lives.

Every sale listed below is a verified result, and together they give you a reliable picture of where the market has actually priced this coin across different grades and conditions.

Monthly auction appearances can signal how actively a coin is being bought and sold — the chart below shows how the 1925 quarter has moved through the market over the past twelve months.

Also Read: 22 Rare Quarter Errors List with Pictures (By Year)

 

Rare 1925 Quarter Error List

Error coins from the 1925 quarter don’t show up often. The Standing Liberty series has fewer documented striking errors than many other U.S. silver series of the same era. When genuine examples surface, they’re worth paying attention to.

Most errors on this date are strike- or die-related. A confirmed error always carries a premium over a standard example of the same grade.

1. 1925 Quarter Die Clash Error — Clashed “E”

This is the fun one. The Clashed “E” is the most recognized die error in the entire Standing Liberty series, and the 1925 Philadelphia issue is one of the confirmed dates.

What happened? The obverse and reverse dies smacked into each other with no planchet between them. That impact transferred a mirror image of the reverse lettering onto the obverse die. The letter “E” from “E PLURIBUS UNUM” is usually the most visible result.

On your 1925 quarter, look for a faint incuse “E” shape in the obverse field near Liberty’s right knee or along her lower gown. On heavily clashed examples, you might also spot faint letters “A” or “M” from “AMERICA” alongside Liberty’s figure.

You’ll need 5x to 10x magnification under raking light. Worn examples with a faint clash are easy to miss — a bold, clearly legible “E” is what drives the premium. In VG to Fine grades, a confirmed Clashed “E” typically sells for $30–$75. In VF to EF with a clearly visible clash, values climb to $100–$200. The most dramatic examples in higher circulated or low Mint State grades have sold for $250–$500, especially when multiple reverse letters are visible.

2. 1925 Quarter Doubled Die Obverse (DDO) Error

Doubled die errors happen during die production, when the hub impresses the design onto a working die twice at slightly different angles. Every coin struck from that die carries the same doubling. That’s what separates a true DDO from machine doubling caused by worn equipment.

On the 1925 quarter, doubling has been observed on the date numerals, Liberty’s head, and shield details. Most known examples are subtle. The Standing Liberty series doesn’t have many bold doubled dies compared to other types, so even modest doubling on a 1925 draws collector interest.

To confirm a DDO, use at least 10x magnification. Look for distinct separation between design elements — not just a blurry or mushy look, which is more likely strike weakness. Start with the date area and Liberty’s helmet leaves.

Light doubling adds a modest bump over a standard coin. A well-defined example in circulated grades can fetch $50–$150 above normal. Bold, cleanly separated doubling in Mint State commands considerably more.

3. 1925 Quarter Off-Center Strike Error

Ever wonder what happens when a planchet isn’t seated properly between the dies? You get a coin with part of the design missing, replaced by a blank crescent on one side.

The degree of misalignment controls the value. Small shifts of 5–10% are relatively common and add only a modest premium. Misalignments of 20–40% are far more dramatic and desirable — especially when the date stays fully visible despite the offset.

On a 1925 quarter, a visible date is critical. If the date disappears into the blank area, the coin becomes much harder to attribute and drops significantly in value.

Striking errors are scarce across the whole Standing Liberty series. Minor off-center examples in circulated grades can sell for $50–$150, while a dramatic 30–40% off-center strike with a clear date can reach several hundred dollars depending on grade and eye appeal.

4. 1925 Quarter Clipped Planchet Error

This error happens before the coin is even struck. When the metal strip feeds through the blanking press, an overlap or misfeed cuts away part of the blank. The finished coin ends up with a curved notch along the edge.

The key diagnostic is the Blakesley effect — a flattening or weakness in the design directly opposite the clip. The missing metal changes how striking pressure distributes across the planchet. Without that telltale weakness on the opposite side, you’re probably looking at post-mint damage, not a genuine clip.

On the 1925 quarter, clips most often appear along the edge, sometimes removing part of the rim or outer design. Smaller clips add a modest premium. Larger clips that leave the date intact and show a strong Blakesley effect are considerably more desirable to error specialists.

Circulated examples with a minor clip typically sell for $40–$100 above normal. A dramatic large clip with strong diagnostics in a mid-grade Mint State holder can fetch $200–$400 or more.

 

Where To Sell Your 1925 Quarter?

For collectors seeking optimal returns, understanding each platform’s commission structure, authentication requirements, target buyer demographics, and payment timelines proves essential when choosing where to list 1925 quarters.

Check out now: Best Places To Sell Coins Online (Pros & Cons)  

 

1925 Quarter Market Trend

*Market Trend Chart showing the number of people paying attention to this coin.

 

FAQ About The 1925 Quarter

1. How much is a 1925 quarter worth today?

A heavily worn example in Good grade starts around $18. Fine condition sits closer to $46. In Mint State, you’re looking at around $425 on average, and a Full Head MS example averages over $893.

The top recorded sale is $22,913 for a PCGS MS67 Full Head. Most 1925 quarters you’ll encounter in the wild fall in the $18–$120 range.

2. Does the 1925 quarter have a mint mark, and where is it located?

No. Philadelphia was the only mint striking quarters in 1925, and Philly never used a mint mark on Standing Liberty quarters. On other years in the series, the mint mark appears on the obverse to the left of the date, near the bottom star. If you see nothing there on your 1925, that’s exactly right.

3. Is a 1925 quarter silver?

Yes. Every 1925 Standing Liberty quarter is composed of 90% silver and 10% copper, weighing 6.30 grams with a diameter of 24.30 mm. That works out to approximately 0.1808 troy ounces of pure silver.

Even the most beat-up examples carry a base melt value above face. But collector premiums far exceed melt for any coin in decent shape, so numismatic value is what you should focus on when pricing yours.

4. What is the Full Head designation, and how much does it affect value?

PCGS and NGC award the Full Head (FH) designation when Liberty’s head shows three specific details clearly: the complete hairline at the forehead, all three leaves in her hair, and a visible ear indentation. These features sit at the highest point of the design and are frequently soft or missing even on slabbed uncirculated examples.

The price difference is big. A standard MS63 and an MS63 FH can differ by several hundred dollars. At MS65 and above, Full Head examples consistently sell for multiples of their non-FH counterparts.

5. Why did the 1925 quarter get a new design compared to earlier years?

The date kept wearing off. By late 1924, quarters were coming back from circulation completely undatable because the numerals sat at one of the highest relief points on the coin.

Starting in 1925, the Mint recessed the date by hollowing out the pedestal where Liberty stands. It worked — quarters from 1925 through 1930 held their dates far better. Many pre-1925 examples are effectively undatable today.

6. How do I tell if my 1925 quarter has a Clashed “E” error?

Hold the coin under 5x to 10x magnification with raking light angled across the surface. Look for a faint incuse letter “E” pressed into the obverse field near Liberty’s right knee or along her lower gown.

On heavily clashed examples, you may also spot faint letters “A” or “M” from “AMERICA.” A weak impression adds $30–$75 in lower grades. A bold, clearly legible “E” in VF to EF can push the value to $100–$200 or more.

7. Are there any 1925 quarters worth more than $1,000?

Yes, but they’re genuinely scarce. MS66 and above with Full Head is where prices cross four figures. An MS66 standard example has sold for $5,760, while an MS67 FH achieved $22,913.

Below MS66, prices stay accessible. We think MS65 Full Head offers the best balance of quality and attainability for most collectors. Above that, supply tightens and auction appearances get infrequent.

8. How do I grade my 1925 quarter at home?

Start with Liberty’s knee and right leg — those flatten first. In Fine grade, the leg is worn smooth with little contour. In Extremely Fine, only the very high points show slight flattening and Liberty’s toes are sharp.

For Mint State, look for original luster across the entire surface with no friction. Then check Liberty’s head for Full Head detail — the three leaves, the hairline, and the ear indentation. Strike weakness there is common even on uncirculated coins, so luster alone doesn’t confirm a high grade.

9. How many 1925 quarters still exist today?

An estimated 20,000 out of the original 12,280,000. That’s a survival rate of roughly 0.16%.

The vast majority are circulated pieces. Only a small fraction grade MS65 or higher, and Full Head examples at gem grades are genuinely scarce. That’s why well-worn examples stay easy to find at moderate prices while gems command serious money.

10. Should I clean my 1925 quarter before selling it?

No. Never. Cleaning permanently damages the surface at a microscopic level, destroying the original luster that graders and collectors look for. A cleaned coin gets downgraded or slapped with a “details” label by PCGS or NGC, which tanks its market value.

If you think your coin is valuable, leave it alone. Submit it raw to a grading service or take it to a reputable dealer. A naturally toned, uncleaned surface always beats a bright but artificially polished one.