1920 Quarter Value (2026 Guide): Errors List, “D”, “S” & No Mint Mark Worth

The 1920 Standing Liberty Quarter is one of the most recognized silver coins from the early 20th century — designed by Hermon A. MacNeil and struck at three different mints: Philadelphia, Denver, and San Francisco.

If you’ve come across one recently, the 1920 quarter value depends heavily on two things: which mint produced it, and what condition it’s in.

A regular Philadelphia issue grades out at around $22 in Good condition, while a Full Head (FH) example from San Francisco can reach $3,061 in AU — and over $10,000 in Mint State. The 1920 issues are considered relatively common among pre-1925 Standing Liberty quarters, which actually makes them a smart entry point for collectors building a type set.

This guide walks you through every variety, what the grades really mean for pricing, and what to look for before you buy or sell.

 

1920 Quarter Value By Variety

Not all 1920 quarters are worth the same — the mint that made yours and whether it has a Full Head (FH) strike both play a big role in what it’s actually worth today. If you know the grade of your coin, you can find the exact price below in the Value Guides section.

Also Read: Top 10 Most Valuable Quarter Coins In Circulation Worth Money (With Pictures)

 

Top 10 Most Valuable 1920 Quarter Worth Money

When it comes to top auction results for 1920 Standing Liberty quarters, the Denver Mint issue stands in a class of its own.

A finest-known example graded MS68 sold for $372,000, making it the single most valuable 1920 quarter ever recorded at auction.

That kind of result is rare, but it reflects just how much collectors value a perfectly preserved strike from this date. Even a step down at MS67, a 1920-D example has sold for $36,000 — still a serious number.

The San Francisco issue follows at a distance. A top-grade MS66 example reached $105,000 at auction, and an MS67 has sold for $40,800. Even an MS64 example has crossed $21,000, showing that collector demand holds firm across multiple grade levels for the S-mint coin.

The Philadelphia issue rounds out the picture, with an MS67 example selling for $93,000. Across all three mints, the pattern is consistent: grade and strike quality are what truly separate an average coin from a record-breaking one.

 

History Of The 1920 Quarter

The Standing Liberty Quarter was first introduced in 1916, designed by sculptor Hermon A. MacNeil as a replacement for the long-running Barber quarter.

A design modification followed shortly after, and the revised Type 2 version became the standard from mid-1917 onward — the exact design used on all 1920 quarters.

By 1920, the United States was adjusting to life after World War I. The economy was shifting, manufacturing was expanding, and silver coinage was in active circulation across the country. The quarter was a coin people actually used day to day.

All three active mints — Philadelphia, Denver, and San Francisco — struck quarters that year. Each produced a distinct issue, and today those three varieties carry quite different values depending on condition and strike quality.

One known issue with the series at this time was that the date wore off quickly with circulation, since it sat on a high-relief area of the design. This wasn’t corrected until 1925, when the date was recessed into the design.

The 1920 quarter sits just five years before that fix — making dateless examples from this era particularly common and a real concern for buyers today.

Also Read: Top 100 Most Valuable Modern Quarters Worth Money List (1965-Present)

 

Is Your 1920 Quarter Rare?

Rarity varies quite a bit across the three 1920 mint issues — and even within the same mint, a Full Head strike can be dramatically scarcer than a regular example. The CoinValueChecker App gives you a quick rarity lookup by date, mint mark, and grade, so you get a clearer picture of where your coin actually stands.

 

Key Features Of The 1920 Quarter

If you want to evaluate or buy a 1920 quarter with confidence, it helps to know what you’re actually looking at. The following sections walk you through both sides of the coin and a few other key details worth noting.

The Obverse Of The 1920 Quarter

The obverse shows the full-length figure of Liberty standing in a gateway, wearing chain mail, with a shield in her left hand and an olive branch in her right — representing defense and peace together in a single image.

The inscription “LIBERTY” appears along the upper edge, while the date sits at the bottom on the pedestal beneath Liberty’s feet. The motto “IN GOD WE TRVST” is divided across the two walls of the gateway, with stars flanking Liberty on both sides.

The mint mark, when present, appears to the left of Liberty’s feet. One detail that matters a great deal to collectors is the strike quality on Liberty’s head.

Many examples show weak or incomplete detail in Liberty’s hair and facial features — and coins with a sharp, fully detailed head, known as Full Head or FH strikes, command a significant premium over regular examples.

The Reverse Of The 1920 Quarter

On the reverse, the eagle is positioned higher and more centered on the coin, with three stars placed below the eagle and five stars to each side — a layout that was part of the Type 2 redesign introduced in 1917.

The motto “E PLURIBUS UNUM” appears above the eagle, while “UNITED STATES OF AMERICA” arcs around the top and “QUARTER DOLLAR” runs along the bottom.

The eagle is shown in flight, wings spread, moving toward the right. It is a naturalistic depiction — one that numismatists have noted as among the more artistically refined eagle designs in American coinage of that era.

Other Features Of The 1920 Quarter

The 1920 quarter is composed of 90% silver and 10% copper, with a diameter of 24.30 millimeters and a weight of 6.30 grams.

The edge is reeded — meaning it has the familiar ridged pattern running around the rim, consistent with U.S. quarter production of the period.

The face value is 25 cents, and the coin was designed by sculptor Hermon A. MacNeil. One practical note for collectors: the date on the 1920 quarter sits in a raised position on the pedestal, which made it prone to wearing smooth with circulation.

This issue was not corrected until 1925, so dateless examples from this era are not uncommon — and worth significantly less than a clearly dated coin.

Also Read: Top 30 Most Valuable State Quarter Coins Worth Money List

 

1920 Quarter Mintage & Survival Data

Philadelphia struck the most 1920 quarters by a wide margin, with a mintage of 27,860,000. Yet only around 15,000 are estimated to have survived today — a survival rate of just 0.0538%. The vast majority circulated heavily and were simply worn out of recognizable condition over the decades.

Denver’s mintage was much smaller at 3,586,400, and its estimated survival sits at around 4,000 coins. Despite having fewer survivors in absolute terms, its survival rate of 0.1115% is actually the highest among the three mints.

A smaller mintage doesn’t always mean a scarcer coin — but in Denver’s case, the combination of low mintage and strong collector demand makes high-grade examples genuinely hard to come by.

San Francisco falls in between, with a mintage of 6,380,000 and an estimated 5,000 survivors.

What these numbers share is that survival rates across all three mints are remarkably low — none exceeding 0.12% of their original mintage. A coin that was once common in everyday use is now quite difficult to find in collectible condition — and that scarcity is reflected directly in what collectors are willing to pay.

Also Read: Top 20 Most Valuable Bicentennial Quarter Worth Money List

 

The Easy Way to Know Your 1920 Quarter Value

Getting a reliable value for your 1920 quarter comes down to three things: the mint mark, the condition, and whether the strike shows a Full Head. Each factor can shift the price considerably, so it helps to get all three right before drawing any conclusion.

A quick and practical way to check is with the CoinValueChecker App. Its AI photo recognition technology reads your coin’s details directly from an image — mint mark, grade range, and strike quality — and returns a value estimate based on current market data.

No experience needed, and no manual cross-referencing across multiple price guides. Just a clean, straightforward result you can actually work with.

 

1920 Quarter Value Guides

The 1920 quarter was struck at three mints, and each one carries a different profile when it comes to value, survival, and collector demand. Knowing which variety you have is the first step to getting an accurate picture of what your coin is worth.

• 1920 No Mint Mark Quarter — the most widely struck issue; accessible at lower grades but scarce in gem condition
• 1920-D Quarter — the lowest mintage of the three; commands the strongest prices across nearly every grade
• 1920-S Quarter — a mid-range mintage with strong demand, especially for well-struck Full Head examples

Each variety has its own value range and its own set of factors that push prices higher or lower. Grade and strike quality matter across all three, but the weight of each factor shifts depending on which mint struck your coin. The sections below break down each variety in detail.

 

1920 No Mint Mark Quarter Value

The Philadelphia issue is the most approachable coin in the 1920 lineup. For collectors just getting into Standing Liberty quarters, that accessibility is a real advantage.

This date is noted for stronger strike quality than most pre-1925 issues. Good luster and even attractive toning appear more consistently here than on the Denver or San Francisco coins. That combination makes it a practical and rewarding starting point.

In circulated grades, prices are modest — around $24 in Good and $40 in Fine. At the MS65 FH level, values climb to around $1,650. A step up to MS66+ FH has pushed prices closer to $93,000 at auction.

For collectors building a complete set on a reasonable budget, this is one of the easier entries to check off. A mid-grade AU or low Mint State example with a decent strike is both affordable and genuinely representative of the series.

The table below lists notable auction results for the 1920 Philadelphia quarter across grades and strike designations.

The chart below tracks monthly market activity for this coin over the past year.

 

1920-D Quarter Value

The Denver issue occupies a different tier entirely. Its auction record reflects just how seriously the market treats this date.

A finest-known MS68+ FH example sold at Heritage Auctions in 2021 for $372,000 — the highest price ever paid for any 1920 quarter. Even at MS67 FH, a Denver example has sold for $36,000.

Strike quality is a persistent concern with this coin. It ranks among the scarcer dates in the series with a confirmed Full Head designation. Genuine Full Head examples are uncommon even at the AU level, and genuinely rare at gem grades.

For buyers, third-party certification matters here. Population data is worth checking too. The number of coins graded above MS65 FH is small enough that any new example coming to market can move prices noticeably.

Auction records for the 1920-D are listed below, covering a range of grades from circulated examples through top-tier Mint State coins.

Recent activity for the 1920-D, broken down by month, is shown in this chart.

 

1920-S Quarter Value

The San Francisco issue has earned a specific reputation — not for its date, but for its strike. A genuine Full Head 1920-S is widely considered one of the most sought-after coins in the entire Standing Liberty series.

The San Francisco mint used insufficient die pressure during this period. The result is coins that appear flat even in uncirculated condition. A soft strike is the rule here, not the exception.

The auction record reflects the premium that sharp examples command. A PCGS MS66 FH example sold for $105,000 at Heritage Auctions in January 2025. And one standard MS67 example has also sold for over $40,000.

In standard circulated grades, the coin is affordable — around $30 in Good and $130 in Extremely Fine. But those numbers have little bearing on what a sharp, well-preserved example is actually worth. Any 1920-S offered as a Full Head should be verified through a certified holder before purchase.

Below is a selection of recorded auction results for the 1920-S, reflecting how prices have moved across different grade levels.

Market patterns over recent months provide additional context for valuation.

Also Read: 22 Rare Quarter Errors List with Pictures (By Year)

 

Rare 1920 Quarter Error List

Most 1920 quarters you come across will be straightforward circulated coins. But a small number left the mint with production errors — and those pieces tend to attract serious collector interest.

The errors are not common finds, but they do exist, and knowing what to look for puts you ahead of most casual buyers.

1. 1920 Quarter Clashed Dies FS-401 Error

A die clash happens when the obverse and reverse dies strike each other without a planchet between them. The impact leaves a ghost impression of each die’s design on the other.

When coins are then struck from those damaged dies, faint transferred images appear in the wrong places on the coin.

On the 1920 Philadelphia issue, the clash is catalogued as FS-401 in the Cherrypickers’ Guide — a standard reference for die varieties in U.S. coinage. The most visible pickup point is a faint “E” from “E Pluribus Unum” appearing on the obverse, near Liberty’s knee area.

This variety exists on both the Philadelphia and San Francisco issues. The auction record for 1920-S sits at $500 for an AU58 example. The Philadelphia version reached $595 at MS64. These are not high-dollar errors, but they are documented and collectible — and most examples go unnoticed by sellers who don’t know what to look for.

2. 1920 Quarter Off-Center Strike Error

An off-center strike occurs when a planchet is not properly positioned between the dies at the moment of striking, resulting in a coin with part of its design missing and a portion of blank planchet visible.

For Standing Liberty quarters, off-center strikes are scarce. As a general rule, larger denominations produce fewer off-center errors than smaller ones. On a coin already produced in far smaller surviving numbers than modern issues, a 1920 off-center example is genuinely uncommon.

Among collectors, a strike that is 40% to 60% off-center is generally considered ideal — dramatic enough to be visually compelling, while still retaining enough design detail to make the coin identifiable.

For a 1920 quarter specifically, the most important factor after the degree of off-center is whether the date remains visible. A dateless off-center example is worth considerably less, since the year cannot be confirmed.

3. 1920 Quarter Lamination Error

A lamination error happens before the coin is ever struck. It originates in the planchet itself — specifically in how the metal was prepared.

When impurities or gas pockets are trapped in the metal alloy during the rolling process, thin layers of the planchet can separate or peel away. The result is a coin with a flaking, peeling, or missing patch of metal on its surface. On a 90% silver coin like the 1920 quarter, this type of defect is considered relatively rare compared to base-metal coinage.

A documented example of a 1920-P Standing Liberty Quarter with a lamination error on the reverse has been offered for sale, confirming that this variety does exist on the Philadelphia issue.

The value of any lamination error depends on two things: where on the coin the defect falls, and how dramatic it looks. A lamination that cuts across a major design element — Liberty’s figure, the date, or the eagle — is considerably more desirable than one tucked near the rim.

4. 1920 Quarter Straight Clip Error

A clipped planchet error occurs at the very start of the minting process, when the metal strip is fed through the blanking press. If the strip overlaps or misfeeds, part of the blank is missing when it is punched out — leaving a curved or straight edge where the coin should be round. A straight clip results from a planchet being cut too close to the edge of the metal strip.

A confirmed example of a 1920 Standing Liberty Quarter straight clip, weighing 6.17 grams and graded VF25, has been recorded at auction. The reduced weight is one of the key indicators that the clip is genuine rather than post-mint damage.

Collectors look for a strong “Blakesley effect” — a flattening on the rim directly opposite the clip — as one of the main diagnostic signs of an authentic clipped planchet. Without it, a damaged edge can be mistaken for a genuine mint error.

5. 1920 Quarter Wrong Planchet Error (Peru 20 Centavos)

In 1920, the Philadelphia Mint was contracted to produce 20 centavos coins for Peru. Those planchets — composed of 75% copper and 25% nickel — were physically close in size to a U.S. quarter blank, which is exactly how one ended up in the wrong press.

This is the only known Standing Liberty Quarter struck on a foreign planchet for the entire series, and it was a very recent discovery — previously unknown to the numismatic community and not listed in any reference book or catalog at the time it surfaced.

The coin looks deceptively normal at first glance, but the weight is off at 6.9 grams versus the standard 6.25, and the color is unusual — showing green-gold and lilac tones that have no place on what should be a silver coin.

It is graded MS60 Full Head and stands as a genuine one-of-a-kind piece. A documented auction result places it at over $16,000 — a figure that reflects both its rarity and its status as the centerpiece of any serious mint error collection.

6. 1920 Quarter Die Crack Error

A die crack forms when the steel die used to strike coins develops a fracture from repeated stress and pressure. Every coin struck after that point carries a raised, irregular line across its surface — a direct impression of the crack in the die itself.

On the 1920 Philadelphia issue, die cracks have been documented on the obverse. NGC recognizes one notable die state, VP-001, which features a prominent die chip visible to the right of Liberty’s legs, resulting from a die failure during production. This is a die state variety rather than a classic crack, but it falls within the same category of die deterioration errors.

Die cracks on Standing Liberty quarters tend to appear near high-relief areas, where the die absorbs the most stress during striking. Minor cracks carry a modest premium among specialists, while dramatic, bold examples crossing major design elements are considerably more desirable.

For collectors new to die varieties, this is a lower-cost entry point — most examples trade for modest premiums over standard coins, making them an accessible and genuinely interesting addition to any 1920 quarter set.

 

Where To Sell Your 1920 Quarter?

With accurate identification and valuation complete, selecting the right sales channel becomes essential. Multiple venues exist for selling your quarters, from traditional dealers to specialized online platforms, each suited to different seller needs.

Check out now: Best Places To Sell Coins Online (Pros & Cons)  

 

1920 Quarter Market Trend

*Market Trend Chart showing the number of people paying attention to this coin.

 

FAQ About The 1920 Quarter

1. How much is a 1920 quarter worth today?

It depends on which mint struck it and what condition it’s in. A 1920 Philadelphia quarter in Good grades around $22, while the same coin in Mint State climbs to around $1,000. The 1920-D is the most valuable of the three — a finest-known example sold for $372,000 at auction in 2021.

The Full Head designation also plays a major role. A standard 1920-S in Good is worth around $27, but a Full Head example in AU jumps to over $3,000.

2. How do I know which mint made my 1920 quarter?

Look to the left of Liberty’s feet on the obverse. A “D” means Denver, an “S” means San Francisco, and no letter at all means Philadelphia. The mint mark is small, so a loupe or magnifying glass makes it much easier to spot.

Philadelphia produced the most coins that year with 27,860,000 struck, while Denver produced the fewest at 3,586,400.

3. What does “Full Head” mean on a Standing Liberty Quarter?

Full Head, abbreviated FH, refers to the sharpness of Liberty’s hair and facial detail on the obverse. A coin must show three complete, separated leaves in the helmet, a fully defined ear, and a sharp hairline to receive the designation.

The Full Head attribution is not a grade — it is a strike designation that serves as a value multiplier for the base grade. On the 1920-S, the FH premium can reach 1,000% or more over a standard example at the same grade.

4. Is the 1920-S quarter rare?

The mintage of 6,380,000 makes it appear common, but the real scarcity is in the strike quality. The San Francisco mint used insufficient die pressure or worn dies, resulting in coins that appear flat even in uncirculated condition.

A genuine Full Head 1920-S is one of the hardest coins to find in the entire Standing Liberty series. Only around 5,000 examples of any quality are estimated to have survived, and well-struck pieces represent a tiny fraction of those.

5. Why does my 1920 quarter have no date?

The date on pre-1925 Standing Liberty quarters sits on a raised pedestal, making it one of the first areas to wear away with circulation. This design flaw was not corrected until 1925, when the date was recessed into the coin’s field.

A dateless 1920 quarter is worth considerably less than a dated example, since the year cannot be confirmed. Always check carefully before assuming a worn coin is a 1920 issue.

6. What is the 1920 Quarter Clashed Dies FS-401 error?

A die clash happens when the obverse and reverse dies strike each other without a planchet between them, leaving a ghost impression of each die’s design on the other. On the 1920 Philadelphia issue, the most visible sign is a faint “E” from “E Pluribus Unum” appearing near Liberty’s knee on the obverse.

This variety is catalogued as FS-401 in the Cherrypickers’ Guide and exists on both the Philadelphia and San Francisco issues. A 1920-P example in MS64 sold for $595, while a 1920-S example in AU58 reached $500.

7. How do I tell if my 1920 quarter has been cleaned?

Cleaned coins typically show an unnatural brightness or fine hairline scratches across the fields when viewed under a light at an angle. Original, uncleaned coins have a more muted, natural luster — sometimes with toning that has developed over decades.

Cleaning lowers a coin’s value significantly. A 1920 quarter that might grade MS64 in original condition could be downgraded to a “details” coin if cleaned, reducing its value by half or more.

8. What grades are considered collectible for a 1920 quarter?

For the Philadelphia issue, collectors typically start looking at AU50 and above — circulated examples below that grade are common and carry modest premiums. For the Denver and San Francisco issues, even Fine or Very Fine examples are worth owning given their lower survival numbers.

Full Head examples are a different story at every grade level. Even a circulated 1920-S FH in Fine condition is considered a meaningful find, with values starting around $4,750 — far above a standard example at the same grade.

9. Is a 1920 quarter made of silver?

Yes. The 1920 Standing Liberty Quarter is composed of 90% silver and 10% copper, with a total weight of 6.30 grams. That works out to approximately 0.1808 troy ounces of pure silver per coin.

Even in heavily worn condition, the silver content gives the coin a base melt value above face value. However, a coin in poor condition is still worth more than its raw silver content alone — making it more valuable to a collector than to a silver buyer at virtually any grade.

10. Where is the best place to sell a 1920 quarter?

For common circulated examples, a local coin dealer or eBay is usually the most practical option. For higher-grade or Full Head examples — especially 1920-D or 1920-S coins — a major auction house like Heritage Auctions will reach a wider pool of specialist buyers and typically realize stronger prices.

The most important step before selling is getting an accurate grade. A 1920-D FH in gem condition is worth thousands more than a standard example, and selling it without knowing that difference means leaving real money on the table.