1913 Nickel Value Checker: Errors List, “D”, “S” & No Mint Mark Worth

If you’re looking into 1913 Nickel value, the range tells the whole story — from $0.05 face value up to $143,750. That high was set by a Grade 68 Type 2 example sold through Bowers and Merena in January 2008. Not sure what yours is worth? Upload a photo below for a quick value range, then scroll down to check recent eBay sales and see where the market stands today.

 

1913 Nickel Value By Variety

Your 1913 Buffalo Nickel’s value depends on which mint struck it and whether it’s a Type 1 or Type 2 reverse. Those two factors alone can swing the price dramatically.

If you know the grade of your coin, you can find the exact price below in the Value Guides section.

Also Read: Top 60+ Most Valuable Buffalo Nickels Worth Money

 

Top 10 Most Valuable 1913 Nickel Worth Money

The coin sitting at #1 is a 1913-D Type 2 graded MS68 — it brought $143,750. That’s a Denver coin in virtually flawless condition, and nothing else in the regular-strike lineup comes close.

Proofs play in their own league. A PR68 Type 1 hit $96,938, and a PR68 Type 2 crossed $66,000. Both were Philadelphia strikes with tiny original mintages. Then there’s the Type 1 “3-1/2 Legs” variety — a die-polishing error that’s fetched over $47,000 in MS65. Across the board, condition, mint mark, and variety each pull serious weight in final prices.

 

History Of The 1913 Nickel

By 1913, the Liberty Head Nickel had been around since 1883. It was tired. The Mint tapped sculptor James Earle Fraser to design something that actually felt American.

Fraser grew up near the Western frontier, and it shows. He put a Native American portrait on the front and an American bison on the back. Vending machine companies fought the new design — it jammed their machines — but the coins hit circulation on March 4, 1913.

Here’s the fun part: the original reverse had “FIVE CENTS” raised up on a flat mound, and it wore down almost immediately. Mid-year, the Mint recessed the denomination into a lower area. That one fix created two distinct types within a single year, and it’s why every 1913 Buffalo Nickel collector has to decide — Type 1, Type 2, or both.

Also Read: Top 100 Rarest Nickels Worth Money (Most Expensive)

 

Is Your 1913 Nickel Rare?

The counterintuitive one here is the No Mint Mark Type 2. Nearly 30 million were struck, yet it has the lowest survival rate of any regular-strike 1913 variety at 0.067%. Meanwhile, the 1913-S Type 2 had the smallest mintage but actually has more estimated survivors proportionally. High mintage doesn’t always mean easy to find — the Coin Identifier and Value App shows you exactly where your specific coin falls on the rarity scale.

 

Key Features Of The 1913 Nickel

There’s a lot packed into this little five-cent coin. Both sides carry deliberate design choices, and a few physical details are worth knowing — especially when you’re trying to figure out which type or variety you’re holding.

The Obverse Of The 1913 Nickel

You’ll see a right-facing Native American chief with strong cheekbones, a prominent nose, and braided hair with feathers. Fraser didn’t base this on one person. The portrait reportedly combines features from three chiefs: Iron Tail (Sioux), Two Moons (Cheyenne), and John Big Tree (Seneca).

“LIBERTY” runs along the upper right rim. The date sits at the lower right base of the neck. Look closely just below the date — Fraser’s initial “F” is tucked in there. Easy to miss, but it’s part of the original design.

The Reverse Of The 1913 Nickel

The bison on the reverse was reportedly inspired by Black Diamond, a bison living at the Bronx Zoo at the time. The layout changed mid-year, giving 1913 two distinct reverse types:

Type 1 (early 1913):

• Bison standing on a raised mound
• “FIVE CENTS” inscribed directly on top of the mound
• “UNITED STATES OF AMERICA” arched above the bison
• “E PLURIBUS UNUM” positioned below the “AMERICA”

Type 2 (later 1913):

• Bison standing on a flat, straight ground line
• “FIVE CENTS” recessed into a lower area beneath the line
• All other inscriptions remain in the same positions as Type 1

That raised “FIVE CENTS” on the Type 1 wore down almost immediately in pocket change. The Type 2 fix was purely practical — and it’s the design the Mint stuck with for the remaining 25 years of the Buffalo Nickel series.

Other Features Of The 1913 Nickel

Composition is 75% copper and 25% nickel. Diameter is 21.2 mm, weight is 5.00 grams, and the edge is plain — no reeding.

The 1913 Proofs are a different animal. They carry a matte finish — a sandblasted surface that gives crisp detail but looks nothing like the mirror-bright Proofs most collectors expect. Both Type 1 and Type 2 Proofs were struck, with just over 1,500 produced total.

Also Read: Top 100 Most Valuable Jefferson Nickels Worth Money List (1938-Present)

 

1913 Nickel Mintage & Survival Data

Philadelphia dominated production. The No Mint Mark Type 1 alone hit 30,992,000, and the Type 2 wasn’t far behind at 29,856,186. Denver and San Francisco made far fewer — the 1913-S Type 2 came in last at just 1,209,000.

But here’s the twist. The No Mint Mark Type 2, despite nearly 30 million struck, has only about 20,000 survivors. That’s a 0.067% survival rate — the worst of any regular-strike 1913 variety. To put that in perspective, out of every 1,500 coins minted, roughly one exists today.

The 1913-S Type 2 remains the key date across all grades. Low mintage plus scarce survivors equals consistent demand.

The two Proof types are a completely different story. Each was struck individually — 1,520 for Type 1 and 1,514 for Type 2 — with survival rates above 59%. Collectors bought them, collectors stored them. That’s why Proofs survive at rates that dwarf anything from circulation.

Also Read: Jefferson Nickel Value (1938-Present)

 

The Easy Way to Know Your 1913 Nickel Value

Two things matter most: which variety you have and how much wear the surfaces show.

Variety comes down to mint mark and reverse type — both visible to the naked eye once you know where to look. Condition is harder to judge, since small differences in wear can jump you into a completely different price bracket.

The Coin Identifier and Value App makes this easier. Snap a photo, and the AI reads your coin’s mint mark, surface condition, and type — then returns a value estimate based on what it sees.

 

1913 Nickel Value Guides

The 1913 Buffalo Nickel breaks into eight collectible categories — six regular strikes across three mints, plus two Proof issues. Here’s what you’re looking at:

• 1913 No Mint Mark Type 1 Nickel — Philadelphia’s first-type issue; the most common of all 1913 varieties
• 1913-D Type 1 Nickel — Denver’s Type 1; scarcer than Philadelphia, moderately valued in circulated grades
• 1913-S Type 1 Nickel — San Francisco’s Type 1; among the series’ more challenging finds
• 1913 No Mint Mark Type 2 Nickel — Philadelphia’s revised design; high mintage but surprisingly low survival rate
• 1913-D Type 2 Nickel — Denver’s Type 2; one of the scarcest issues in the 1913 series
• 1913-S Type 2 Nickel — San Francisco’s Type 2; low mintage and strong collector demand across all grades
• 1913 Proof Type 1 Nickel — struck in small numbers for collectors; matte finish, not for circulation
• 1913 Proof Type 2 Nickel — the revised design in Proof format; equally rare and equally sought after

Each variety behaves differently at auction. The sections below cover what makes each one scarce, what to look for condition-wise, and what realistic prices look like grade by grade.

 

1913 No Mint Mark Type 1 Nickel Value

Over 30 million struck. Most common variety of the year. So why do top-grade examples still bring serious money?

Circulated pieces are affordable — MS60 runs about $75. But once you hit gem territory, things change fast. MS65 trades in the $235–$275 range. MS67 examples have sold between $1,325 and $2,400.

At MS68, the PCGS price guide lists $9,500, and auction records have climbed as high as $79,313. The certified population at that level is tiny, which explains the premium.

If you find one in original, unclean condition with full horn detail, you’re already looking at something better than most survivors.

Verified auction records for this variety go back several years across a wide range of grades.

Market activity over the past year has stayed fairly consistent, with some seasonal ups and downs in how often these trade.

 

1913-D Type 1 Nickel Value

Here’s a coin where the grade spread can burn you if you’re not careful. A circulated example in grade 40 sits around $60. Step up to MS63 and you’re at $185–$210. Push to MS65 and the range jumps to $475–$525.

Denver struck about 5.3 million of these — a fraction of Philadelphia’s output. That lower mintage shows up directly in price at every grade level.

One thing I’ve noticed with Denver coins from this era: they tend to come with stronger strikes than San Francisco issues. That can work in your favor at grading time. An above-average strike in a mid-range grade often looks better than the number suggests. If you’re sitting on the fence between MS63 and MS65 money, get it slabbed before making any moves.

Past auction results span multiple grading tiers, giving you a solid picture of where the market has priced this variety.

Monthly activity over the last twelve months shows a steady pattern with occasional quieter stretches.

 

1913-S Type 1 Nickel Value

Only 2,105,000 struck — the lowest mintage of any regular-strike 1913 variety. About 10,000 survive. This one holds value firmly at every grade level.

Even a Grade 4 starts at $65. By MS64, you’re in the $500–$600 range. MS68 examples can trade at $55,000, and an MS67+ has been recorded at $16,800. Those numbers reflect just how few high-grade survivors exist.

Registry set collectors keep steady pressure on the top end, and even mid-grade pieces move quickly. San Francisco’s strike quality tends to run weaker than Denver or Philadelphia, so a well-struck example carries extra premium that the grade alone won’t tell you about. Worth checking with a loupe before you buy or sell.

Auction records for this variety span multiple years and grade levels, reflecting its standing as one of the more actively tracked Type 1 issues.

Market activity over the past year has moved in cycles — busier months followed by softer stretches rather than a straight-line trend.

 

1913 No Mint Mark Type 2 Nickel Value

Think 30 million minted means easy to find? Think again. The survival rate is just 0.067% — the lowest of any 1913 regular strike. Most of these circulated hard before anyone bothered saving them.

MS60 starts around $70. MS63 comes in at $150–$175. Nothing crazy so far. But the real challenge is finding one that hasn’t been cleaned or harshly handled. Original surface coins in MS64 and above are genuinely scarce, and that’s where prices reflect it — MS65 runs $475–$625, and MS67 jumps to $4,250–$14,000.

If you’re building a complete 1913 set, this is often the last piece that falls into place. Not because of cost — because finding a problem-free example takes real patience.

Sales records cover a broad grade spectrum, from well-worn circulated pieces through certified Mint State coins.

Trading frequency over the past year has bounced around month to month rather than holding a steady pace.

 

1913-D Type 2 Nickel Value

$143,750. That’s what an MS68 brought — the highest price ever paid for a regular-strike 1913 Buffalo Nickel. And it came from Denver.

Mintage was just over 4 million, but only about 10,000 survive. Even in G4, this variety opens at $125 — well above its Philadelphia counterpart. MS63 sits at $475–$525. MS66 has traded between $3,850 and $5,250.

Those top-end prices aren’t hype. Certified gems are counted in the dozens. This is the variety where grade accuracy matters most — the spread between MS64 and MS65 alone can mean thousands of dollars. Professional certification isn’t optional here. It’s the baseline for any serious transaction.

This variety has a well-documented auction trail, especially at the higher end where certified populations are thin.

Recent market activity shows the irregular rhythm you’d expect from a scarce coin — bursts of sales followed by quieter stretches.

 

1913-S Type 2 Nickel Value

This is the key date. Just 1,209,000 struck. Around 14,000 surviving. Premiums start at the bottom of the grade scale and only grow.

A heavily worn Grade 4 begins at $225 — the highest entry point of any regular-strike 1913 variety. That floor tells you how competitive this coin is in every condition.

High-grade survivors are genuinely rare. Only about 250 examples are estimated at MS65 or better. MS67 pieces have reached between $40,000 and $80,000 at auction. Any original, problem-free example deserves serious attention regardless of grade.

Auction records for this key date have been tracked consistently, with results spanning every grade from heavily circulated to gem Mint State.

Activity over the past twelve months has fluctuated month to month — typical for a coin where individual appearances draw concentrated bidding attention.

 

1913 Proof Type 1 Nickel Value

Only 1,520 made, and they look nothing like what most people picture when they hear “Proof.” These carry a matte, sandblasted finish — crisp detail but zero mirror reflectivity.

That surface is both the coin’s signature and its Achilles’ heel. Because there’s no gloss, even light contact leaves marks that are tough to tell apart from actual wear under grading standards. Problem-free examples above PR65 are far scarcer than survival numbers suggest.

A single PR68 has sold for near $100,000. That price reflects both the razor-thin certified population at that level and the sheer difficulty of keeping a matte surface pristine for over a century.

Past auction results cover the full PR grade range, from standard examples through the scarcer high-grade survivors.

Market appearances over the past year have been sporadic — this isn’t a coin that changes hands often, and the activity chart shows it.

 

1913 Proof Type 2 Nickel Value

Same matte finish as the Type 1, but the two aren’t identical in hand. The Type 2’s recessed “FIVE CENTS” changes how light plays across the fields compared to the raised-mound Type 1. It’s a subtle difference, but experienced collectors notice it immediately. I think side-by-side comparison between the two Proof types is one of the more interesting exercises in the series.

Values start at $775 in PR60 and climb steadily. PR65 trades in the $2,750–$2,900 range. At PR68, examples have reached $66,700. The real challenge is the same as the Type 1 — matte surfaces are unforgiving, and originality matters more here than on almost any other 1913 issue.

Auction records for the Proof Type 2 cover a range of certified grades, giving you a reference point for where the market has consistently placed this issue.

Trading frequency over the past year has been modest and uneven — expected for a low-population coin that only surfaces occasionally.

Also Read: 22 Rare Nickel Errors List with Pictures (By Year)

 

Rare 1913 Nickel Error List

The 1913 Buffalo Nickel has more formally attributed die varieties than most collectors realize. Each one below has been catalogued and verified through third-party grading services. If something on your coin looks off, it’s worth a second look with a loupe.

1. 1913 Type 1 3-1/2 Legs FS-901 Error

Same cause as the famous 1937-D Three-Legged Buffalo: the Mint polished the reverse die too aggressively and wiped out part of the bison’s front leg. The upper portion vanishes, but the hoof stays — giving you that “3-1/2 legs” look.

Flip your coin to the reverse and focus on the bison’s front right leg, the one closest to “FIVE CENTS.” This variety only appears on the Type 1 reverse. Normal wear can make details look soft, but this error shows a structural absence starting from the body — not just surface flattening from circulation.

Nobody paid much attention to this variety until years after its discovery. When a PCGS MS64 example hit auction in 2003, it sold for $19,550. An MS65 followed a year later at $47,437.50. Altered coins do exist, so stick with slabbed examples for any transaction.

2. 1913 DDR FS-1801 And FS-1802 Error

Both are doubled die reverse varieties. During die-making, the hub impressed the design more than once with a slight misalignment, leaving a visible echo or shadow on reverse elements.

The FS-1802 appears on the Type 1 reverse. Its auction record stands at $3,600 for an MS65, sold through Heritage Auctions in December 2018. The FS-1801 is the Type 2 counterpart — separate die, separate attribution, same underlying cause.

You’ll need magnification to spot either one. Neither is as dramatic as the 3-1/2 Legs, which is exactly why they get overlooked. And that’s what makes them great cherrypicking targets for variety collectors.

3. 1913 Type 1 2 Feathers FS-401 Error

When mint workers polished a die to remove clash marks, they sometimes took off the third, innermost feather — the short one between the back of the chief’s neck and the longest feather. Result: only two feathers visible on the obverse.

PCGS recognizes 27 distinct Two Feathers varieties across the entire Buffalo Nickel series, from 1913 through 1930, covering all three mints. For 1913, both the Denver and San Francisco issues carry this attribution.

There’s even a dedicated PCGS Registry Set for collectors chasing the complete Two Feathers run. To check your coin, look at the space between the top feather and the braid at the back of the neck. On a genuine Two Feathers example, that space is clean — no trace of the third feather. The 1913-D version sold for $1,440 in MS65 at Heritage Auctions in March 2019.

4. 1913 Type 2 DDO FS-1101 Error

This is a doubled die obverse on a Type 2 coin — the error is on the front, not the back.

The best diagnostic? Look for a “pregnant” date. The numerals appear slightly thickened or pushed outward from class VI doubling. Many examples also show a die clash mark under the chin of the Native American portrait.

The doubling is subtle compared to more famous varieties in the series. Most coins pass through hands without anyone noticing — which is why uncertified examples sometimes trade below their attributed value. Great cherrypicking opportunity if you know what to look for.

The auction record sits at $3,840 for an MS66, sold through Heritage Auctions in August 2023. The premium over a standard Type 2 grows sharply at MS65 and above, where the certified population stays thin.

 

Where To Sell Your 1913 Nickel?

Whatever route you choose, taking a few minutes to compare your options upfront can make a real difference in what you walk away with — platforms, fees, and buyer pools vary more than most people expect.

Check out now: Best Places To Sell Coins Online (Pros & Cons)  

 

1913 Nickel Market Trend

*Market Trend Chart showing the number of people paying attention to this coin.

 

FAQ About The 1913 Nickel

1. How much is a 1913 Nickel worth?

Anywhere from about $12.80 to over $143,000 — it all depends on variety and condition. A Philadelphia No Mint Mark Type 1 in Good grade starts around $12.80. A 1913-S Type 2 in the same grade opens at $204. In Mint State, common varieties run a few hundred dollars while a top-grade 1913-D Type 2 has hit $143,750.

There are eight varieties total — six regular strikes plus two Proofs. The 1913 Proof Type 1 starts at $950 in PR60 and has reached nearly $100,000 at PR68. Grade and mint origin together drive those numbers more than anything else.

2. How do I tell the difference between a Type 1 and Type 2 1913 Nickel?

Flip it over. On the Type 1, the bison stands on a raised mound with “FIVE CENTS” sitting on top. On the Type 2, there’s a flat ground line with “FIVE CENTS” recessed below it. That’s the quickest way to tell.

Getting the type right matters a lot for value. The 1913-S Type 2 starts at $204 in Good grade, while the 1913-S Type 1 opens at $53. Always confirm the type before looking up any price.

3. What does the mint mark on a 1913 Nickel look like, and where is it?

Look on the reverse, just below “FIVE CENTS.” A “D” means Denver. An “S” means San Francisco. No letter at all means Philadelphia.

Mint origin directly affects value. The 1913-D Type 2 in Good grade starts at $105.20, compared to $12.96 for the Philadelphia No Mint Mark Type 2. That gap widens as you move up in grade.

4. Is a 1913 Nickel with no mint mark worth anything?

Absolutely. Even heavily worn Philadelphia coins are worth well above face value. A No Mint Mark Type 1 starts at $12.80 in Good grade and climbs to over $9,500 in MS68.

The No Mint Mark Type 2 is the sleeper here. Despite nearly 30 million struck, only about 20,000 survive — a 0.067% survival rate, the lowest of any regular-strike 1913 variety. Original, uncleaned examples in MS64 and above are genuinely scarce.

5. Why does my 1913 Buffalo Nickel have a missing leg on the bison?

You’ve likely got the 1913 Type 1 Three-and-a-Half Legs variety. Excessive die polishing removed the upper portion of the bison’s front leg while leaving the hoof intact.

This variety wasn’t widely recognized until around 1988–1995. When an MS64 example first hit auction in 2003, it sold for $19,550. An MS65 followed the next year at $47,437.50. Altered coins do exist, so professional certification is strongly recommended.

6. What is the rarest 1913 Nickel?

The 1913-S Type 2. Mintage of just 1,209,000, with only about 250 examples estimated at MS65 or better. It commands the highest entry price of any regular-strike 1913 variety — $225 even in heavily worn G4.

MS67 examples have reached between $40,000 and $60,000 at auction. Even mid-grade coins don’t sit on the market long.

7. Should I clean my 1913 Nickel before selling it?

No. This is the single most expensive mistake a beginner can make. Cleaning strips natural patina and leaves microscopic scratches that graders and experienced collectors spot instantly.

A cleaned coin gets a “details” grade instead of a numeric grade from PCGS or NGC, which tanks its market value. A cleaned MS65 can sell for circulated money. Leave it alone.

8. What is a Matte Proof 1913 Nickel?

These were struck at Philadelphia specifically for collectors. Instead of a mirror-bright surface, they got a fine sandblasted texture — crisp detail but no reflectivity. Both Type 1 (1,520 struck) and Type 2 (1,514 struck) exist.

The matte finish is also incredibly fragile. Light handling leaves marks that look like wear under grading standards. That’s why problem-free examples above PR65 are much scarcer than survival numbers suggest — and why a PR68 Type 1 has sold for close to $100,000.

9. How do I grade my 1913 Nickel at home?

Check the high points under good lighting. On the obverse, look at the cheekbone and the braid behind the neck. On the reverse, examine the bison’s front leg and the hip/shoulder area — these wear first. No visible wear plus original luster means Mint State. Flat or missing horn detail usually means Good grade or below.

For anything worth over $100, home grading is just a starting point. The spread between MS63 and MS65 on a 1913-D Type 2 can be over $700. Get it slabbed by PCGS or NGC to protect both sides of the deal.

10. What makes the 1913-D Type 2 Nickel so valuable?

Mintage of just over 4 million, but only about 10,000 survivors today. Even in G4, it opens at $125 — the highest circulated entry point of any Type 2 regular strike.

Certified gems are counted in the dozens. MS66 has traded between $3,850 and $5,250, and an MS68 sold for $143,750 — the all-time record for any regular-strike 1913 Buffalo Nickel. The difference between MS64 and MS65 alone can represent thousands of dollars, so we always recommend professional certification before any serious transaction.