Rare 2010 Dime Errors Worth Money (Full List With Pictures)

GreatCollections sold a 2010-S proof Roosevelt dime with a rim cud error for $1,450 in 2012 — serious money for a coin worth ten cents at face value. The complete 2010 dime error list includes eleven documented error types, with confirmed prices ranging from $5 for a minor die crack to four figures for missing clad layers, die chips, and rim cuds.

Here is every error sorted by value, with auction records and identification tips for each one.

1. 2010 Dime Die Crack Error (Up to $150)

Die cracks form when the steel dies fracture from repeated high-pressure strikes against planchets. Each die stamps hundreds of thousands of coins before wearing out, and toward the end of its service life, hairline fractures split the die face.

When the cracked die strikes a planchet, metal flows into the fissure and solidifies as a raised line on the finished coin. On Roosevelt dimes, die cracks frequently run from the rim through “LIBERTY” or “IN GOD WE TRUST,” or across Roosevelt’s portrait — the more prominent the crack, the more collectors pay.

Value: No specific 2010 dime die crack has surfaced at a major auction with a confirmed record. General market pricing: minor cracks add $5 to $15, significant cracks connecting major design elements bring $25 to $75, and large cracks approaching cud territory can reach $100 to $150.

How to Identify: Scan both sides under magnification and bright, angled light. Die cracks appear as raised lines — run your fingernail across a suspected crack and you should feel a ridge.

Common locations include through the lettering, along Roosevelt’s profile, or extending from the design to the rim. Scratches are incised and rough; die cracks are raised and smooth.

Check the reeded edge — die cracks on the coin’s face do not affect the edge reeding, which should appear normal. The fastest test: if the line is raised and smooth, it is a die crack; if incised and rough, it is a scratch.

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2. 2010 Dime Broad Strike Error (Up to $200)

A broad strike happens when the restraining collar — the metal ring that defines the dime’s diameter and imparts its reeded edge — fails to engage during striking. Without that collar containing the metal, the planchet spreads outward under die pressure and produces an oversized coin.

The design appears on both sides and is usually well-centered, but the coin is wider and thinner than normal. The edge comes out completely smooth instead of reeded — on a dime, that missing reeding is the fastest visual tell since every normal dime has 118 reeds.

Value: No 2010-specific broadstrike dime has surfaced at a major auction with a confirmed record. General pricing for modern Roosevelt dime broadstrikes: minor expansion with a barely smooth edge brings $15 to $50, and dramatic broadstrikes that are obviously oversized with a completely flat edge reach $100 to $200.

How to Identify: Measure your coin with calipers. A normal Roosevelt dime is exactly 17.91 mm in diameter — any reading above that warrants closer inspection.

Check the edge. A broadstrike has a flat, knife-like edge with no reeding at all, whereas every normal dime has a fully reeded edge with 118 reeds.

Both faces should show complete, well-struck design details that extend closer to the edge than on a normal coin. Do not confuse with dryer coins, which have thickened, rounded rims from tumbling.

The fastest test: wider than 17.91 mm plus completely smooth edge equals broad strike.

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3. 2010 Dime Off-Center Strike Error (Up to $300)

An off-center strike occurs when the planchet feeds into the press misaligned with the dies. The dies stamp the design toward one edge, leaving a blank crescent on the opposite side where no design transferred.

Each off-center strike is unique in direction and degree. More displacement means more value — but only if the date remains visible, because a dateless off-center dime cannot be attributed to 2010 and its premium collapses.

Value: No 2010-specific off-center dime has a confirmed major auction record. General pricing for modern Roosevelt dime off-center strikes: 5% to 15% displacement sells for $5 to $20, and 20% to 35% brings $30 to $100.

Dramatic 40% to 50% strikes with a fully visible date can reach $200 to $300. The date sits low on the obverse near Roosevelt’s neck, so shifts toward the upper left preserve it best.

How to Identify: Look for design elements cut off along one edge with a blank, unstruck crescent on the opposite side. The blank area should show raw planchet surface with no design impression.

Check the edge — the reeding should be incomplete or absent on the shifted side where the collar could not engage. Measure the displacement as a percentage of the coin’s 17.91 mm diameter.

Confirm the struck portion shows sharp detail consistent with a single strike. Do not confuse with broadstrikes, which show the full design on an oversized coin with no blank crescent.

The fastest test: blank crescent plus partial design, with the date still readable.

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4. 2010 Dime Die Clash Error (Up to $490)

A die clash happens when the obverse and reverse dies slam together without a planchet between them. The enormous pressure transfers a partial impression of each die onto the other — the torch design gets stamped into the obverse die face, and Roosevelt’s portrait gets stamped into the reverse die.

Coins struck afterward from those damaged dies carry faint ghost images of the opposite design. On 2010 dimes, you might see a faint outline of the torch ghosted onto Roosevelt’s portrait, or hints of Roosevelt’s profile appearing near the torch on the reverse.

Value: In 2020, a collector on eBay paid $490 for a 2010-P Roosevelt dime graded MS60 with a die clash error. Minor clashes with faint ghost images add $5 to $15.

Strong, clearly visible clash marks with unmistakable transferred design elements bring $50 to $200. The $490 example had particularly dramatic clash marks visible without magnification.

How to Identify: Examine Roosevelt’s portrait under 10x magnification, looking for faint raised lines or shapes from the torch that do not belong to the normal obverse design. On the reverse, check the area around the torch for transferred elements from the portrait.

Use a strong light source at various angles — clash marks often appear only when light hits the surface at specific positions. The ghost images should be raised, not incised.

Compare your coin to images of known 2010 die clash varieties online. The fastest test: ghost images of the opposite side’s design visible under angled light.

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5. 2010 Dime Struck Through Error (Up to $650)

Struck-through errors happen when foreign material lands between the die and planchet just before striking. Wire fragments, cloth fibers, grease, or metal shavings block the die from fully transferring its design, leaving a weak or blank zone on the finished coin.

When the foreign object stays embedded in the coin, it is a retained struck-through, and those command significantly higher premiums. Heritage Auctions sold a 2011-P Roosevelt dime with a wire struck-through error graded MS65 for $655 in 2011, and comparable 2010 examples trade in similar ranges.

Value: No 2010-specific struck-through dime has a confirmed major auction record, but comparable 2010-era Roosevelt dimes with this error range from $100 to $650. Minor grease fills add $10 to $30.

Dramatic struck-throughs with large blank areas sell for $75 to $300. Retained struck-throughs with visible debris embedded in the surface push past $400.

How to Identify: Look for areas where design details are weak, blurred, or absent while surrounding areas show full-strike detail. The affected zone should have defined boundaries — not a gradual fade like wear.

Grease fills produce smooth, flat patches. Wire strikes leave thin raised lines across the surface, and fabric struck-throughs may show thread textures.

Check whether foreign material remains on the coin — retained objects dramatically increase value. The fastest test: sharply defined blank or weak zone on one side only, with the opposite side struck normally.

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6. 2010 Dime Improper Annealing Error (Up to $760)

Annealing is the heat treatment that prepares planchets for striking. When the furnace temperature, duration, or atmosphere goes wrong, the planchet’s surface chemistry changes and the coin emerges discolored — blackish, grey, purple, orange, or some uneven mix.

The discoloration is baked into the metal at the molecular level before striking, not tarnish or environmental damage. Collectors call fully dark examples “Black Beauties,” and the unusual appearance gives them a dedicated following among error specialists.

Value: In 2019, a collector at an online auction paid $760 for a 2010-D Roosevelt dime graded MS63 with an improperly annealed planchet error. The coin showed dramatic color deviation from normal silver-white.

Raw, uncertified examples trade for $15 to $50. Certified specimens with dramatic full-surface discoloration sell for $100 to $400, and PCGS or NGC slabs add significant premium.

How to Identify: Look for unusual coloring across the entire coin or large sections — dark grey, purple, black, or orange tones that do not match the normal silver-white clad dime surface. The discoloration should appear uniform and metallic.

Tilt the coin under a single light source. Genuine improper annealing shows normal mint luster and flow lines on top of the dark surface — the luster spins as you rotate the coin.

Environmental damage kills luster and leaves a matte, non-reflective finish. Weight should be normal at 2.27 grams since the composition is correct — only the surface treatment failed.

The fastest test: spinning mint luster visible over the dark surface under a single angled light.

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7. 2010 Dime Doubled Die Error (Up to $835)

Doubled die errors originate during die manufacturing, not coin striking. When the Mint presses a hub into a die blank, a slight shift between impressions creates a permanent doubled image in the die itself.

Every coin struck from that flawed die shows identical doubling, making this a collectible die variety. On 2010 dimes, doubling appears on “LIBERTY,” “IN GOD WE TRUST,” the date, or the torch and olive branch on the reverse — though 2010 doubled dies tend to be subtler than classic examples from earlier decades.

Value: GreatCollections sold a 2010-P Roosevelt dime graded MS64 with a doubled die error for $835 in 2022. Typical doubled die examples from this year range from $25 to $835 depending on doubling strength.

Weak doubling visible only under heavy magnification sits near the bottom. Clearly visible doubling on multiple design elements commands the premium end.

How to Identify: Examine “LIBERTY” and “IN GOD WE TRUST” under 10x magnification first — these show doubling most readily on Roosevelt dimes. Look for a distinct secondary image with rounded, raised contours offset from the primary design.

Machine doubling — flat, shelf-like steps on one side of letters — is worthless and common on modern dimes. True doubled dies show rounded, three-dimensional doubling.

Check the date and reverse inscriptions for consistent doubling patterns across multiple design elements. The fastest test: rounded, raised doubling across multiple elements versus flat shelf-like steps that are worth nothing.

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8. 2010 Dime Clipped Planchet Error (Up to $1,000)

Clipped planchets form when the blanking press punches discs from a metal strip and the strip fails to advance properly. The next punch overlaps the hole from the previous blank, creating a planchet with a curved bite taken out of its edge.

The incomplete planchet goes through upsetting and striking normally, carrying the missing chunk to the finished coin. On 2010 dimes, larger clips removing 20% or more with the date still intact are where values climb into triple digits and beyond.

Value: No 2010-specific clipped planchet dime has surfaced at a major auction with a confirmed record. General market pricing for modern clad dime clips: small clips under 10% sell for $10 to $30, and medium clips of 10% to 20% bring $30 to $200.

Major clips over 25% with complete dates can command $300 to $1,000. The larger the clip and the more design preserved, the higher the price.

How to Identify: Look for a smooth, curved indentation along the edge where metal is missing. The clipped area should show raw planchet edge without reeding.

Check for the Blakesley effect — a weak or absent rim directly opposite the clip, 180 degrees away. This diagnostic signature forms because the metal could not flow properly during upsetting where the blank was incomplete.

The reeding should be interrupted at the clip — you will see smooth planchet edge instead of the normal 118 reeds. Design elements near the clip should be partially cut off.

The fastest test: Blakesley effect on the opposite rim plus interrupted reeding at the clip edge.

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9. 2010 Dime Die Chip Error (Up to $1,010)

Die chips form when a small piece of the die’s steel surface flakes off, leaving a tiny void. As the die continues striking coins, that void fills with metal during each strike, producing a small raised bump on every coin it contacts.

Most die chips are tiny and unremarkable. But when a chip lands on a prominent design feature and changes the coin’s appearance in an amusing or dramatic way, collectors pay attention — the $1,010 example had chips on both the obverse and reverse, compounding the visual oddity.

Value: Heritage Auctions sold a 2010-S proof clad Roosevelt dime with die chip errors on both the obverse and reverse for $1,010 in 2020. The proof status added premium since proof die errors are scarcer than business strike errors.

Standard die chips on business strike 2010 dimes add $5 to $30. Chips on Roosevelt’s face or those creating noticeable visual oddities bring $50 to $200.

How to Identify: Under magnification, die chips appear as small raised bumps or blobs on the coin’s surface. They are smooth and rounded, not rough or jagged like contact marks.

The bump sits within the design area and feels slightly raised when you run a fingernail over it. Check Roosevelt’s face, the torch, and large letters where chips are most visible.

On proof coins, die chips are easier to spot because the mirror-like fields make any irregularity stand out sharply. The fastest test: a raised, smooth, rounded bump that does not match any part of the normal design.

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10. 2010 Dime Missing Clad Layer Error (Up to $1,320)

Roosevelt dimes are three-layer sandwiches: a pure copper core bonded between two outer skins of 75% copper and 25% nickel alloy. A missing clad layer means one of those outer skins failed to bond during the strip-preparation stage, before the blank was even punched.

The result is a dime that looks copper-brown on one side and normal silver on the other — an immediately visible color contrast. This is a planchet error, not a striking error, and the weight difference from the missing layer is measurable on a digital scale.

Value: Heritage Auctions sold a 2010-D Roosevelt dime graded MS65 with a partial missing reverse clad layer for $1,320 in 2015. Partial missing clad errors on modern dimes typically range from $100 to $500 depending on grade.

Full missing clad examples — where both sides show copper — can command even higher premiums. Uncirculated examples with vivid copper color consistently bring the top of the range.

How to Identify: Start with a digital scale. A standard clad dime weighs 2.27 grams, and a dime missing one clad layer comes in noticeably lighter — typically 1.80 to 2.10 grams.

If your dime looks copper but still weighs 2.27 grams, it is environmental damage from acids or chemicals. That single test eliminates most false positives.

Under magnification, look for a uniform reddish-brown copper surface on the affected side while the other side appears normal silver-toned. Check the edge for an asymmetric sandwich where one layer is clearly absent.

The fastest test: wrong weight on a precise scale plus copper color on one side.

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11. 2010 Dime Rim Cud Error (Up to $1,450)

A rim cud forms when a chunk of the die edge breaks off completely, leaving a void that fills with metal during each subsequent strike. The result is a raised, featureless blob at the coin’s rim — smooth on top because the die material that would have impressed the design is gone entirely.

The $1,450 record holder is a 2010-S clad proof Roosevelt dime, and proof status matters here. Proof dies are more precisely finished and used for shorter runs, making proof cuds significantly scarcer than business strike cuds.

Value: GreatCollections sold a 2010-S clad proof Roosevelt dime with a rim cud error for $1,450 in 2012. Proof error coins carry substantial premiums over business strike equivalents.

Business strike rim cuds on 2010 dimes: small cuds add $15 to $50, medium cuds covering part of the rim bring $50 to $200, and large cuds affecting major design elements reach $200 to $500.

How to Identify: Look for a raised, blob-shaped area touching the rim with a flat, featureless top surface where design details should be visible. The area should feel smooth when you run a fingernail over it.

The opposite side of the coin should strike normally — this distinguishes cuds from post-mint damage that would affect both sides. Check that the cud transitions sharply into the normal design at its edges.

On proof coins, the cud contrasts sharply with the mirror fields, making it easy to spot. The fastest test: raised, smooth, featureless blob at the rim with normal striking on the opposite side.

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Conclusion

The 2010 dime error market runs from $5 for a minor die crack to $1,450 for a proof rim cud. Seven of the eleven errors on this list have confirmed sales above $490, and four have cleared $1,000.

The strongest premiums go to errors with immediate visual impact — missing clad layers, dramatic cuds, and proof die chips. A digital scale, a 10x loupe, and calipers are all you need to start checking.